STL 178: To Glue One Edge or Two?
To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254:
- Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page
- Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list
We'll pick a winner December 21, 2018.
Question 1:
From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong?
Question 2:
From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards. I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist. Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence.
All Time Favorite Technique
Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain.
Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck
Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers
Question 3:
From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint?
Question 4:
From Anthony: Last couple years I've been on the hunt for an 8" jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12" jointer that I'm pretty excited about. It's a Bridgewood 12" 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use?
Recommendations:
Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page
Bob - His own Instagram page
Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
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To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254:
- Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page
- Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list
We'll pick a winner December 21, 2018.
Question 1:
From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong?
Question 2:
From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards. I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist. Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence.
All Time Favorite Technique
Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain.
Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck
Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers
Question 3:
From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint?
Question 4:
From Anthony: Last couple years I've been on the hunt for an 8" jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12" jointer that I'm pretty excited about. It's a Bridgewood 12" 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use?
Recommendations:
Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page
Bob - His own Instagram page
Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
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