Check Your Thread: Sewing More Sustainably

Are there fabrics in your stash that you’re just too scared to cut into? I talk with Stephanie Canada, vintage sewing pattern and fabric seller, about when and why it's ok to use the precious fabric. Plus she shares her sourcing secrets, and tells us when it’s important to chuck vintage sewing resources in the bin… 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

The website I used to research the sustainability credentials of various banks is bank.green. 

Find Stephanie’s shop at her website ‘Backroom Finds’. 

You can also find her on Instagram @backroomfinds and on Youtube @StephanieCanada.

Listen to the first episode with Stephanie:

• Ep. #125: Vintage Sewing Not Vintage Values with Stephanie Canada

Stephanie bought an entire sewing shop!

Stephanie recommends these reproduction pattern companies:

• Mrs Depew Vintage
• Wearing History 

@WithLoveKristina on Youtube is Stephanie’s pal. 

My most precious length of fabric:

Listen to:

• Ep. #72: Sewing for Body Changes
• Ep. #76: Sewing for Body Changes, Part 2

Do vintage sewing patterns make you swoon but you’re scared to try actually sewing with them? Vintage pattern obsessive and Youtube queen, Stephanie Canada, unpacks the perceived obstacles that may be holding you back. We also discuss the enjoyment of vintage style without the perpetuation of vintage values, and how using vintage resources might help us sew more sustainably. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Sign up to the newsletter via the home page of CYT.com.

Find Stephanie’s shop at her website ‘Backroom Finds’. 

You can also find her on Instagram @backroomfinds and on Youtube @StephanieCanada.

Stephanie recommends these reproduction pattern companies:

• Mrs Depew Vintage
• Wearing History 

The podcast episode I mentioned that featured Gretchen Hirsch (Gertie´s blog for better sewing and Charm Patterns) was The Craft Industry Alliance:

• Episode #238: Gretchen Hirsch

Laci Fay can be found on Youtube @LaciFayTheVintageGirlNextDoor. 

Stephanie made a video addressing the question: Why are Vintage Patterns So Small?

What would it be like if we could enjoy complete freedom within our sewing lives? Free from the shoulds and shouldn’ts, the fears and even past experiences? My guest, Tony Rea, tells us how this mindset took him from sewing newbie to top-three-finalist of sewing’s most famous competition: The Great British Sewing Bee. Plus, Tony shares his formula for sewing more sustainably (spoiler alert: it involves a lot of thrifted duvet covers…).

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find out more about Tony on his website, and see his latest projects on Instagram @tonyr.maker.

Tony’s Etsy shop is stocked with handmade cycling caps in fun prints.  

This Postman Pat shirt was clearly inevitable:

If you find yourself in Plymouth, swing by the Plymouth Scrapstore.

Tony made a Fabric Godmother Peony dress for his wife to attend Christmas events in. 

Tony first encountered zero waste sewing patterns during the pattern challenge on GBSB:

Tony adapted Birgitta Helmersson’s ZW Block Pants and ZW Workwear Jacket patterns for his style and frame. 

Image source: Birgitta Helmersson. 

Tony wore a denim ‘suit’ created using these patterns which he modelled on the runway at the Knitting & Stitching show in London, October 2023. 

Tony recently embarked upon the Studio Trouser Low Waste pattern by Norwegian brand, Indigo Indigo (@indigoindigo.no on IG). 

Is your wardrobe stuffed with me-mades? Whatever role garment sewing plays in your life, after a while, the clothes can really start to pile up. So how can we continue to take pleasure in sewing, without adding to your problem of too many clothes?

Image source: Megan Lee via UnSplash

Idea No. 1: Challenging ourselves.

Hear more about hand stitching clothing:

• Ep. #15: Hand Stitching Clothes with Louisa Owen-Sonstroem 
• Ep. #73: The Seeds of Slow Sewing with Alexis Bailey 

Learn more about improving fit:

• Ep. #95: Refining Fit with Kate Roberts

Options for online courses to learn and develop new skills:

• Project Patterns
• Domestika
• Craftsy

Idea No. 2: Sewing things that aren’t clothes.

My favourite bag pattern designers:

• Noodlehead
• Tytka Studio
• Motif Studio Patterns
• Merchant & Mills

Start your sew making journey at I Can Make Shoes.

Get inspired to make a quilt more sustainably by listening to the following previous episodes:

• Ep. #19: Quilting and Considered Consuming with Shelly Sommer
• Ep. #26: Harvesting Materials with Eliu Hernandez
• Ep. #89: Threads of Sustainability with Bridget O’Flaherty
• Ep. #105: A Habit of Curiosity with Heidi Parkes
• Ep. #106: Reframing a Relationship with Clothes with Heidi Parkes
• Ep. #116: Improv Scrap Play with Sherri Lynn Wood

Idea No. 3: Sewing clothes for other people

Idea No. 4: Sewing for charity 

Make washable menstrual pads for:

• Pachamama Project
• Days for Girls

Make reusable tote bags for Boomerang Bags.

Make dress and other children’s garments from pillowcases for Little Dresses for Africa.

Idea No. 5: Mending!

Hear from super creative mending expert, Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald:

• Ep. #39: Modern Mending with Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald
• Ep. #40: Experimend with Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald

Get her book Modern Mending:

Consider the spectrum of mending possibility:

• Ep. #68: Visible Vs Invisible Mending

What are the unique challenges that designing zero waste sewing patterns for children throws up? And the ways in which it might actually be easier? In this episode, Liz Elliott, the designer behind Thread Faction Studio, gives us a fascinating insight into her business and processes. We also discuss navigating life when your role as a parent and as a business owner are entwined. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Liz’s patterns on her website, Thread faction Studio, plus follow her on IG @threadfactionstudio. 

Sew 4 Bub was Liz´s first blog where you can still access some free patterns.  

Like every ZW pattern designer, Liz was inspired by The Zero Waste Fashion Design book by Holly McQuillan and Timo Rissanen.

See the ZW pattern look book on Thread Faction Studio website. 

I’ve previously made the ZW Utility Jumpsuit pattern (my version) and the ZW Cap Sleeve Tee pattern (my version).

Image source: Thread Faction Studio.  

Liz is a big fan of previous-guest Birgitta Helmersson’s book, Zero Waste Patterns. 

Listen to my conversation with another Australia-based ZW pattern designer, Liz Haywood:

• Ep. #31: Exploring Zero Waste Design with Liz Haywood

Find some of Liz’s previous ‘Hatchlings Patterns’, including grow-with-me baby/toddler styles, in Liz´s Etsy shop.

Listen to previous guest Alexis Bailey talk about her ZW pattern journey:

• Ep. #74: Recognition and Responsibility with Alexis Bailey

I spoke about ZW sewing patterns on a reel made by Fabric Godmother in advance of a sewing class I taught that focused on Birgitta Helmersson’s ZW Cropped Shirt pattern.

Do you enjoy hearing the whys and the hows behind other people’s sewing projects? Previous-guest, Judy Williment-Ross, is one of the most prolific, resourceful and creative makers I know. In this episode, Judy talks us through the ideas and development behind some of her more recent projects. She also shares her secrets to creating professional looking garments out of op-shop finds and fabric scraps. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Follow Judy Williment-Ross and her creative journey on Instagram @judywillimentross. 

Judy´s previous appearance on  CYT:

• Ep. 69: Making Mindfully with Judy Williment-Ross

Check out The Epic Dress.

Judy has shared about the process (and again) as well as the finished version of her Scrappy Jacket. 

Her Scrappy Pouch was proof of concept. 

The logical step, after working with suit trousers and button up shirts was, of course, ties! The result being the All Tied Up Dress:

Next up was a plethora of Blanket Coats! Including her pal Rhonda’s. 

Judy started adding ‘My Mum Made It’ labels to her daughter’s garments:

Judy’s Waste Coat is made using the scraps leftover from the All Tied Up dress:

Judy’s previous waistcoat project used a pattern from 1895. 

Does this look like a bog blouse?! 

Holly McQuillan’s spiral trousers concept has also been made by previous-guest Liz Haywood. 

Georgia´s professional upcycled and handmade wardrobe:

We chatted about my patchwork denim quilted jacket.

Do you know what your sewing machine needs to stay in good working order? What equipment is required for that? What issues can be tackled at home, and when should we call in the professionals? And what’s the best way to become the professional, if that’s of interest to us? These are just some of the questions my guest, sewing machine technician, Bizz McKilligan, answers in today’s episode. Bizz is also the owner of a shop called The Green Thimble, that recirculates secondhand sewing equipment and fabric. She shares the long and interesting journey she went on to arrive in that situation. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Bizz is the owner of The Green Thimble, an online and bricks and mortar sewing shop in Victoria, Canada, that helps to recirculate existing sewing resources.  

Follow them on Instagram @thegreenthimble.ca.

If you haven’t already, listen to:

• Ep. #104: How to Successfully Shop for Second-hand Sewing Machines

Find out about the many ways in which The Green Thimble endeavours to be a more-sustainable business. 

Bizz recommends the Bernina 830 Record if you are looking to purchase a robust and easy to fix machine. I now desperately want one!

The Green Thimble has a wonderful, supportive relationship with The Makehouse Co-op, also in Victoria, Canada.  

Do you have a system for organising your fabric stash? I didn’t until recently. In this episode I’m sharing my own method of organisation that I’m calling the ‘seasonal stash’. This system is allowing me to unlock the potential in what I already own, whilst stopping it from feeling overwhelming. Could the ‘seasonal stash’ system help YOU?!

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

(image source: Mel Poole via Unsplash)

**CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE FREE DOWNLOADABLE PDF VERSION OF THIS GUIDE**

The Seasonal Stash Guide

This is a simple step-by-step guide for implementing the Seasonal Stash system for sorting and organising a fabric collection. It won’t take you long to implement, and once set up, requires little maintenance. 

This will help you to:

• unlock the potential in the resources you already own
• shift any negative feelings you may have about your collection
• plan projects and ACTUALLY SEW THEM. 

Sounds good? OK let’s do this!

The first three steps I’d recommend for whatever system of stash organisation you want to implement. 

Step 1) Gather your fabric. 

Gather it all in one place to sort and organise. Ideally, we also want to be storing it in the same spot as well going forwards. If at all possible, keep all your fabric lengths together in the same room, if not the same cupboard / set of shelves / collection of storage tubs.

This will prevent you from:

• forgetting what you own
• losing items you’ve already bought/acquired
• being unable to compare suitable fabrics for a project plan
• annoying those you live with with random smaller stashes of fabric dotted around your home

Step 2) Edit.

To paraphrase William Morris: have nothing in your stash that you do not believe to be beautiful or know to be useful. Just hold each item and answer, honestly: Do I think this is lovely and / or  is it useful? If so, am I actually going to sew with it?

Tips to help the editing process:

• Keep this step running smoothly and quickly: just react to each piece, place it in the ‘yes’ or ‘no’ pile, and move on
• Work out what you’ll do with the NO fabric another day. That concern will slow you down. Today we sort and organise only

After the editing step you should be looking at only the pieces that:

• you genuinely like
• aren’t particularly exciting but you can see yourself using, like lining or toiling / muslin-making fabric 

Step 3) Set aside anything small or scrappy. 

Think about what that means to you. Some examples of definitions may include:

• anything that is too small to make a garment from
• anything too small to place a pattern piece on
• Anything smaller than an A4 or letter sized piece of paper
• Anything under 50cm

Whatever your definition is, put aside those pieces to be stored separately. Scraps and leftovers are a great resource for sewing, however, finding uses for them will be much easier if they’re not wedged in between the longer and weightier lengths.

**Note: the only exception to this might be if you have scraps of one of the lengths of fabrics in your collection. You might be able to cut some pattern pieces from the scraps when you come to use the length, so you should probably store those scraps with the rest of the length**

If you have any garments that you’re keeping to either refashion or harvest fabric from, separate those out too. 

Step 4) Separate your fabric into 3 piles. 

Currently you’re just dealing with your main stash of garment-sized fabric lengths. Once again, go through them piece-by-piece and place them into one of three piles.

Pile #1: 

In this pile place the fabric pieces that are suitable for the season you’re currently in or are about to transition into. Only include the pieces that you have plans for, even if those plans are fairly loose. 

Pile #2: 

In this pile place the fabric pieces that are suitable for the next six months to a year (basically fabrics suitable for a season or two ahead of what you’re currently experiencing). Again, only include the pieces that you have plans for, even if those plans are fairly loose. 

Pile #3: 

Everything else! Because you have already done the work, at this point your stash only contains items you genuinely want or can see are useful. Therefore, the pieces in this pile deserve to be here, you just don’t know what to do with them yet. 

Step 5) Positioning the piles:

Depending on how much fabric you own and the shape / size / orientation of your storage situation, each ‘pile’ might actually be multiple piles. 

1. Place Pile #1 where it is most visible and most accessible. 
2. Pile #2 ideally goes behind or underneath Pile #1, still pretty accessible if possible, but not in constant sight. 
3. Pile #3 can go away, out of sight. But preferably not completely inaccessible should inspiration strike. 

Step 6) When the seasons change:

When a season comes to an end, it’s time to rotate the fabric around. Follow these sub-steps:

1. Go through each remaining piece from Pile #1 and think about why each piece from this pile didn’t get used. If necessary, redistribute those remaining pieces into one of the other piles. 
2. Go through Pile #3 to remind yourself what’s there, and see if any project ideas spring up
3. Swap Pile #1 and Pile #2 over so they are seasonally relevant again
4. Put it all back!

**When to swap things over**

Finally, a note on when to do Step 6. The timings I’ve suggested above require swapping your fabric round every three to six months. However this whole system is, of course, entirely open to interpretation and customisation. You could make your ‘sewing seasons’ shorter or longer. Or you may decide to to swap things over and reevaluate when you discover the pieces in Pile #1 aren’t inspiring you. You always want to be looking at a collection of fabric that you’re excited to sew with!

Happy Sewing! 

Could you go for a year without buying fabric? Or even a couple of months? I speak to Lise Bauer about what Last Sewist Standing, the ultimate stash busting challenge that she created, can do for you. In this episode, the second in the Fabric Stash mini-series, we discuss shopping habits and motivations, perfectionism, habit building, resourcefulness, community, accountability and so so much more. Plus you NEED to hear how Lise’s own challenge went this year. As you can hear in the episode, I was SHOCKED!

Support the podcast over on Patreon! Lise and her fabric-of-shame!

Follow Lise Bauer @miss.taeschli on Instagram.

Check out the IG posts relating to the #lastsewiststanding challenge.

I first discovered the challenge through regular-guest, Shams el-Din Rogers, the ‘unofficial winner’ of the second year of the challenge. 

The ‘unofficial winner’ of the first year of the challenge was Wilma Gerlsma @vladivos.

Discover many of the participants through the comments on Lise’s most recent check-in post.

Wilma wrote an excellent blog post about her relationship to fabric and fabric buying. 

Lise is on a roll, making pouches for everyone she knows! 

Lise is using the Pipa the Pouch pattern by Sewing Patterns by Masin, which is free when you sign up to the newsletter. 

Image source: Sewing Patterns by Masin 

You can read my road test of the Pipa the Pouch pattern on my blog as part of my Free Pattern Friday blog post series. 

Would you like to bring your sustainability values and your sewing life into closer alignment in 2024? If so, one key area to focus on is materials. In this episode, CYT listeners share their fabric-related goals for the year ahead. Which ones resonate with you? 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Check out the ‘Introduction to Garment Fabrics’ guide. 

Find the Stash Hub app on their website, on IG @stash_hub, or in your smart phone’s app store. 

Learn more about the #lastsewiststanding challenge via its creator, Lise Bauer, AKA  @miss.taeschli. 

Read the blog post by Modern Sewing Co. that inspired Amy Dyce’s approach to planning her autumnal sewing. 

Image source: The Modern Sewing Co.

Would you like to get more creative with your fabric scraps, but you’re just not sure how to approach it? You could be missing out on a whole heap of fun, if only you could learn how to be more receptive to their potential. My guest this week is improv quilting artist and teacher, Sherri Lynn Wood. Sherri Lynn defines the two types of creativity as ‘active’ and ‘receptive’. As garment sewers, we are used to actively creating the garments that we’ve envisioned. However, Sherri Lynn encourages us to access the second type by playing with fabric scraps and existing textiles, to see what we can create without a clear idea of the finished outcome. Whether that play becomes a quilt, a garment, or something else…

Find everything Sherri Lynn Wood is involved in, past and present, on her website. You can also follow her on Instagram @sherrilynnwood.

Find all the workshops in the Found Color series. 

Learn about Sherri Lynn’s improv quilters’ community, Bravepatch.

Eli Leon was a scholar and collector of African American quilts. 

Quilters that inspire Sherri Lynn:

• Rosie Lee Tompkins 
• Arbie Williams 

Sherri Lynn’s book, ‘The Improv Handbook For Modern Quilters

A Guide to Creating, Quilting & Living Courageously’, was published in 2015.

Sherri Lynn is offering a free warm-up class at the start of the series, which takes place on 6th January 2024. Sign up via her website. 

Sherri Lynn recommends that garment sewers with scraps try strip piecing:

My pieced cardigan that I was wearing during our conversation:

Suay Sew Shop in LA is a fascinating businessthat are doing wonderful things to keep textiles in use for longer. 

Listen to my episodes with improv quilt artist, Heidi Parkes:

• Episode #105: A Habit of Curiosity with Heidi Parkes
• Episode #106: Reframing a Relationship with Clothing with Heidi Parkes

My scrap pieced denim dungarees that I was wearing during our conversation:

Wool batting by Fairfields is Sherri Lynn’s preference if she’s buying new batting.

Is your pile of items to be repaired getting out of hand? Do you struggle to find the motivation to tackle it all? My guest, Jeanna Wigger, invented a challenge called Winter of Care and Repair, and it might be just the push you need to get on top of things! We talk about the fun and satisfaction that can be found through acts of repair, as well as the unique challenges and growth opportunities that come through completing a season-long personal project.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Jeanna Wigger wearing an outfit of invisibly mended clothes:

You can follow Jeanna on Instagram @thepeoplesmending.

The challenge was previously mentioned on the podcast in my conversation with regular guests Shams:

• Episode #32: Textile Activism with Shams el-Din Rogers 

Engage with other participants via the hashtags #winterofcareandrepair and #winterofcareandrepair2023.

Jeanna and I are both fans of writer and podcaster Gretchen Rueben. Gretchen developed the Four Tendencies personality framework, of which I am obsessed! 

Katrina Rodabaugh, author of ‘Mending Matters’, played a key role in Jeanna’s mending journey. 

Jeanna’s beautifully mended knit cardigan:

Previous guest, Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald, creatively mended this stained toddler top:

Image source: Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald

Additional ideas of what could constitute an act of repair from Jeanna:

- laundry care! level up your stain removal knowledge or learn about alternatives to washing such as spot cleaning or alcohol spritzes to refresh clothes between washes

- depill a sweater with an electric depiller or a sweater comb

- jewelry repair - fix a clasp or replace a battery in a watch (or take those items to a repair shop)

- hand wash and air out wool knitwear

- use a leather treatment on leather handbags, boots, jackets, furniture, etc

- replace worn shoelaces

- clean up or polish shoes

- overdye a garment or other textile that needs a refresh

- alter a garment for yourself or someone else

- repair something with stitches that isn't clothing (like a pillow, bag, dog toy, curtain, etc). Remember, anything with stitches can be mended! 

All the materials that go into our sewing projects have an environmental impact. You’re probably starting to think about more sustainable fabric, and possibly even thread. But we can go further! This episode features the second half of my conversation with Richard Mendham from James Tailoring, a company dedicated to sourcing more sustainable haberdashery. In this part, he tells us about our options for more sustainable elastic, zips and buttons…

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Listen to the first half of my conversation with Richard:

• Ep. #109: More Sustainable Thread Options with Richard from James Tailoring

Find all the more sustainable haberdashery options Richard sources on the website James Tailoring.

Find all their more sustainable elastic options. 

Natural Rubber Activewear Elastic

Organic Cotton and Natural Rubber Fold Over Elastic 

Find all their more sustainable zip options. 

Zips with recycled brass teeth:

Image source: James Tailoring

Find all their more sustainable button options. 

Find all their more sustainable fabric options. 

Learn about what has to be achieved to receive GOTS certification. 

If you’re looking for ideas for quick and cheap sewing projects that make great gifts then this is the episode for you. And if there is a maker in your life that you’d like to buy something special for, or people are asking for gift ideas that they can get for YOU, Grace from Beyond Measure talks me through some of the beautiful and useful items she sells that might fit the bill. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Gifts for makers:

Tool roll tutorial by The Book Hut.

Stowe Bag pattern by Grainline Studio.

Image source: Grainline Studio

Simple Accessories & Clothing Gifts:

Sorrento Bucket Hat pattern by Elbe Textiles. 

Image source: Elbe Textiles

Sandcastle Bucket Hat pattern by Waves & Wild. 

Reversible Bucket Hat pattern by Oliver + S. 

The Orton Bag pattern by Merchant & Mills. (In the episode I have said this is one is free however, it is now a paid-for pattern). 

The byTilly shopper bag pattern from byGraziela Fabrics.

Image source: byGraziela Fabrics

Scrunchie tutorial by Melly Sews.  

Mittens pattern made by using wool knitwear by fibreandtwigs on Etsy. 

Mandy Boat Tee pattern by Tessuti. Read my review of this pattern. 

Luna Tank pattern by Helen’s Closet. 

Dominique Skirt pattern by Tilly and the Buttons. 

Lightweight summer face mask tutorial by Sophie Passmore. 

Homeware Gifts: 

Apron pattern by Tessuti.

Workaday Apron pattern by Merchant & Mills HERE.

Oven Mitt pattern by Bombazine. Read my review of this pattern. Please note that this pattern for previously free, but is now a low-cost paid for pattern. 

Fabric Bowl Cover tutorial by Hearth and Vine. Read my review of this tutorial.

Gifts for Kids:

40 Free Sewing Patterns for Gifts for Kids blog post.

My Favourite Free Children’s Sewing Patterns blog post.

Batman Costume tutorial by Fleece Fun.

Pom Pom Tutu Skirt tutorial by Brit + Co. 

Princess Dress Up Apron pattern by It’s Always Autumn. 

Image source: It’s Always Autumn

Easy Apron pattern by Scattered Thoughts of a Crafty Mom. 

Oven Mitt pattern by Made for Mermaids. 

Gift Wrapping:

Furoshiki Wrapping Cloths tutorial by Wellness Mama. 

At Beyond Measure:

Listen to Ep. #59: Tools for Life with Grace Whowell

Sarah Young animal and people printed tea towels. 

Daruma Yokota Sashiko threads

Image source: Beyond Measure

Daruma Yokota variegated Sashiko Threads

Daruma Yokota Sashiko Sampler Cloth pre-printed with different patterns

Image source: Beyond Measure

Daruma Yokota Sashiko Cloth

Hiroshima Cellulose-head Tulip Pins 

Image source: Beyond Measure

Cohana Wooden Star Head Pins 

Cohana Mini Masu Pincushion

Image source: Beyond Measure

Cohana Silk Braided Mini Snips

Cohana Cast Iron Pattern Weights

Cohana Awaji Kawara Magnetic Needle Rest with Polisher

Image source: Beyond Measure

Dropcloth Sampler designed by Rebecca Ringquist

Hand Sewing Clothing book by Louisa Owen Sonstroem

Listen to Ep. #15: Hand Stitching Clothes with Louisa Owen Sonstroem

100 Acts of Sewing Shirt No. 1 by Sonya Philip 

Awls made in Japan 

Image source: Beyond Measure

Wooden Stitch Rippers 

Tracing Wheels 

Linouiio yarn made in Yorkshire

If you’re a fan of making your own clothes, chances are you might also be into growing some of your own food. And like this week’s guest, garden consultant Pippa Chapman, highlights, once you start trying to be more sustainable in one area of your life, that approach usually spreads to other areas. In this episode Pippa actually takes the reins and gives me a consultation about my own little garden. She offers up advice on how I can use my space more productively and successfully. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Garden consultation 

Find Pippa Instagram’s feed @pippachapman_thoseplantpeople and Those Plant People’s Youtube channel and website.

The Cloud Gardener specialises in garden designs for balcony places. 

My post about saving seeds from shop bought baby plum tomatoes.

Pippa’s design for a milk bottle slug/snail trap:

Stephanie Hafferty is a proponent of the No Dig approach to gardening.

Pippa’s design for a double palette planter:

Huw Richards is a permaculture inspired gardener with a popular Youtube channel. 

My takeaways from the garden consultation:

• Train courgettes to grow upwards
• Grow pumpkins and BNS up washing lines to form a canopy
• Look for squash variety Crown Prince 
• Try slug and snail trap (see pic above)
• Try growing some perennial vegetables including perennial kale varieties Taunton Deane, Daubenton Kale and Panache Kale
• Look out for Babington Leek 
• For the shady area, consider Caucasian Spinach - which can be encouraged to grow upwards, plus salad leaves and swiss chard 
• Plant spring bulbs to provide food for pollinators early in the year 
• Edible flower options can provide food for humans and pollinators. Look for Daylilies (Latin Hemerocallis) - you can eat every part of the plant, Campanulas - siberian bellflower and Allium Molly - edible flowers for adding to salads 
• Add mulch to the soil in Nov/Dec
• Incorporate water into the garden, a container with shallow edges, so bees and other pollinators can drink
• Decomposing wood provides a habitat for some insects
• Consider comfrey as living mulch and to make fertiliser from it

Have you ever found yourself feeling unhappy with your sewing output? You’re making more items than your wardrobe can handle, or a lot of them are styles that you rarely wear in your regular life? Or both? My guest, Lena King, recently realised that her sewing output was no longer in alignment with her goals. In this episode she talks about what was going wrong and what she plans to do about it.  

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Follow Lena’s creative output and thoughts via Instagram @thatlenaking.

Lena also shares her thoughts in a longer format on her blog ‘The Unpick Stitch Papers’.  

The Seamwork / Colette Patterns Peony Dress pattern was one of Lena’s early successes in dressmaking. 

Read Lena’s initial post about losing her way with her sewing goals. 

#AnkaraFabricAppreciationWeek #sewankara23 is hosted by Lena and Juliet Uzor.

Lena’s Heather blazer looks amazing in Ankara fabric:

Lena worked hard to create a stunning Victoriana dress:

You can create a similar garment using Fabric Godmother’s Peony dress pattern.

How much is the mainstream sewing industry adopting a sustainability mindset these days? I went to the Knitting & Stitching show in London at the beginning of Oct 2023 to investigate. I tried to unearth any ethical and eco-minded motivations among the commerce taking place. So come with me and listen to the conversations I had and the conclusions I came to…

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Spending the day with my pal Catherine (@kittyandthetiger on Instagram)

Catherine and I attended the Knitting & Stitching show at Alexandra Palace in London in October 2023. 

I spoke to Jen Hogg who designs and sells sewing and knitting tools via her website, Etsy and through other retailers. Find Jen on Instagram @jenerates. 

Her most popular products are the seam circles and the silicon hot hemmer. 

Image source: Jenerates

Find the Stash Hub app on their website, on IG @stash_hub, or in your smart phone’s app store. 

You can catch up on all Yvettes ‘Stash Chats’ on YouTube, including one with me!

Lauren Tedstone was a contestant in the 2023 series of The Great British Sewing Bee. You can follow her on Instagram @madebylaurentedstone.  

Lauren introduced me to the Mimiquins custom mannequins and their creators. I then spoke to Jaire, one of the co-founders of the brand. 

Image source: Mimiquins

I bumped into Tanya from Bornella Fabrics who told me about her recent participation in a Street Stitching event.

Image source: Street Stitching

Louise from Ethel & Joan told me about her newest button, pin holder and jewellery designs. Find Louise’s business, Ethel & Joan, on her website, Etsy shop and IG @ethelandjoan. 

Do you worry about the hundreds of metres of polyester thread that most makers get through each year? Is the strength of polyester thread worth its lack of biodegradability? What are the viable alternatives available to us, and can we have the best of both worlds? My guest today is Richard from James Tailoring, a haberdashery business with the goal of bringing us better options. We get into how he started his eco-focused business, and making the best choices of thread for your projects.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find all the more sustainable haberdashery options Richard sources on the website James Tailoring.

I met Richard in April 2023 at the Sew Sustainable Fair in London. Listen to the episode I made including recordings taken at the event:

• Ep #87: Sew Sustainable Fair 2023

Listen to my previous thread-related episode:

• Ep #20: What Thread Should I Buy?

Richard’s wife, Sharon, is the owner of and designer for Maven Patterns.

Find the James Tailoring’s selection of more sustainable thread, including the fine, medium and topstitching weights of Tencel thread I mentioned. 

Image source: James Tailoring

Does Halloween leave you feeling conflicted? You or your kids want to enjoy it, but the waste it generates leaves you feeling queasy? Today I break down how we can engage in Halloween costumes and decor more sustainably, using the ‘5Rs’ framework for guidance.  

Scary Halloween stats from Hubbub and Waste Managed:

• 33 million people dress up for the Halloween each year in the UK
• 79% of households with children dress up
• And out of those families planning to dress up, 94% of the families plan on buying new costumes for Halloween in 2023
• However, we know that 83% of Halloween costumes use non-recyclable plastic
• And then 7 million of those costumes are binned each year
• 4 out of 10 costumes having only been worn once

Learn more about the 5 Rs, which are:

• "Refuse what you do not need."
• "Reduce what you do need."
• "Reuse by using reusables."
• "Recycle what you cannot refuse, reduce, or reuse."
• "Rot (compost) the rest."

Read this eye-opening article about why composting is better than sending things to landfill. 

Today’s episode explores the idea that sewing, and the actions we take and choices we make whilst engaging in sewing, is full of social and political context. And why that’s a GOOD THING. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

(image by Mika Baumeister via Unsplash)

Read the full explanation of the source of ‘the personal is political’ on Britannica. 

The materials of quilt making and garment sewing are the same. But what can quilt artists teach garment sewists about embedding meaning and connection into our creations? And should our sensory experiences of the textiles we wear alter our career paths? Just two of many intriguing threads of conversation that come up in today’s episode, the second of two with quilt artist Heidi Parkes. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Photo by Clare Britt @clarebrittcreative

This is the second part of my conversation with Heidi Parkes. Here the first half:

• Ep #105: A Habit of Curiosity with Heidi Parkes

You can explore Heidi Parkes’ work via her website. Heidi also posts on Instagram @heidi.parkes, and has a YouTube channel.  

Heidi’s quilt ‘But, Was That Me?’ featuring the skirt she wore whilst teaching:

Photo by Heidi Parkes

We discuss the sewing for body changes episodes:

• Ep #72: Sewing For Body Changes
• Ep #76: Sewing For Body Changes, Part 2

Heidi relates to some of the descriptions within The Highly Sensitive Person by Elaine N Aron. 

A recent creation made by Heidi from a quilt given to her by a former yoga student:

Photo by Heidi Parkes

Listen to Heidi’s episode of the Craft Industry Alliance podcast:

Heidi was inspired by artist Andrea Zittel’s uniform projects. 

Follow Heidi on Pinterest at HeidiParkesArt.  

Are you, like me, fascinated by people who have been able to express themselves in a variety of disciplines? My guest, Heidi Parkes, is an improvisational quilt artist, mending expert, garment sewist, and so many more things, living in Wisconsin, USA. Heidi explains how developing a habit of curiosity has allowed her to explore her interests whilst moving through different, but connected, creative worlds. This episode contains the first half of our conversation, make sure to listen to the second half next week. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Show notes:

Check out my chat with Yvette from Stash Hub app on YouTube.

Photo by by Tiffany Talbott @frontstreetimages

You can explore Heidi Parkes’ work via her website. Heidi also posts on Instagram @heidi.parkes, and has a YouTube channel.  

I thoroughly recommend that you listen to Heidi’s latest appearance on Zak Foster’s podcast Seamside.

Photo by by Tiffany Talbott @frontstreetimages

Check out the wonderful Soft Bulk lecture series of videos on YouTube.

Listen to my conversation with Heidi’s friend and fellow quilter, Eliu Hernandez:

• Ep #26: Harvesting Materials with Eliu Hernandez

Heidi references Brené Brown’s book ‘Atlas of the Heart’, which explores eighty seven emotions as outlined by Brown. 

Photo by by Tiffany Talbott @frontstreetimages

Heidi is inspired by (among many others, no doubt!):

• Luke Haynes
• Pauline Boyd (@counterpane) 
• Maura Grace Ambrose / Folk Fibres

The small quilts (as well as the large quilts!) are available through the shop on Heidi’s website 

See the Vignettes Quilt no. 2.

Have you ever bought a second-hand sewing machine and it turned out to be a dud? It didn’t work properly or perhaps it didn’t do the things you needed it to. If so, it may have discouraged you from getting a second hand machine again. And if you haven’t bought a second hand machine before, maybe you have some fears that’s put you off? In this solo episode, I’m going to share some key tips that will help you find a second-hand sewing machine that you’ll love. I’ll also share some tips for getting a machine for free! 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

My scrap-busting undies! Tencel/elastane jersey for the backs, pieced together cotton/elastane jerseys for the front. The pattern used is my FREE SoZo Undies pattern:

Image credit: Alicia Cristin Gerald via Unsplash

The London-based Library of Things has lots location across London, and has now spread to Brighton & Hove. You can borrow a sewing machine for £5 per day or £20 per week. 

If you are in the UK, you can probably find your local sewing machine servicing and repairs person via the Yellow Pages. 

Closet Core Patterns have a great free pattern and tutorial to make a sewing machine or overlocker/serger cover. 

What do you do when you’re swimming in a sea of fabric and yarn scraps? Previous guest Meg Grandstaff has recently been concerning herself with just this question! This week’s episode is a highly unstructured conversation between myself and Meg, who is currently hosting the #ScrapBustingSeptember challenge. We talk about scraps, of course, but also storms, stashes, shirt dresses and much more. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

I am THRILLED to be able to share with you that I was a guest on Clotheshorse podcast! You can hear Part 1 of our conversation here and Part 2 here, or find them in your podcast app-of-choice.

You can follow Meg’s sewing and knitting endeavours via IG @the_grand_stash.

Listen to Meg’s previous appearances on CYT:

• Ep #22: Mending Workshops with Carla & Meg / Community Glue
• Ep #37: Pledges and Participants #1 with Rebecca & Meg

Meg is currently hosting the #ScrapBustingSeptember challenge, which encourages us all to make projects using our scraps and leftovers of fabric and yarn.  

I mentioned how I use both the Trello app and the Stash Hub App (both on my phone) to organise my sewing plans and projects. 

Learn more about the amazing enterprise, Community Glue, where Meg regularly volunteers. 

Meg is a repeat participant of Me-Made-May.

She enjoyed using the Me-Made-May Workbook this year to get more from her participation. 

Meg discovered the ‘Stitched Sewing Organizers’ by Annela Hoey (link goes to a British vendor’s website):

This is the project Meg wants to make form the book:

Sewing patterns Meg recommends for using scraps and leftovers of knit fabric:

• Stevie Knickers pattern by Paper Theory
• Watson Bra pattern by Cloth Habit
• Blomma Tank pattern by Paradise Patterns (see one of Meg’s versions)

Image source: Meg Grandstaff - undies made using the Stevie Knickers pattern by Paper Theory.

Meg has been hoovering up yarn leftovers by making socks and knitted scrunchies:

Meg and I are both massively inspired by clothing creator Zero Waste Daniel,  also @zerowastedaniel on IG. 

Meg’s scrap studio tunic from denim:

Image source: Meg Grandstaff - tunic made using the Studio Tunic pattern by Sew Liberated. 

Find all my Free Pattern Friday blog posts which review free sewing patterns and tutorials. 

What is the right choice when buying produce, the loose items, or the organic versions that are wrapped in plastic? Should we be worried about soil degradation and our ability to feed a growing global population? What are the trade-offs we need to make to increase crop yields whilst also protecting biodiversity? We all wear clothes and we all eat food, so if you’re interested in the sustainability of one, it’s likely you have questions relating to the other. In this episode, agricultural scientist and sewist Helen Metcalfe patiently answers all of mine! 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Check out the fun new challenge/hashtag #scrapbustingseptember created by previous-guest Meg Grandstaff (@the_grand_stash).

Find and follow Helen Metcalfe on Instagram @helenlivesslow

Helen works at Rothamsted Research. 

My IG post that kicked off the whole debate over the validity and purpose of the ‘dirty dozen’. 

The Royal Horticultural Society website is a great source of information for those wanted to grow some of their own fruit and vegetables.  

The Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN has heaps of information if you wish to learn more about food security across the globe. 

Jenny Drew wants you to make sewing a priority, and she’s not going to take no for an answer! This is the pep talk that you might not have known you needed. From feminist and mental health perspectives, Jenny explains why we need sewing in our lives. She then tells us how to make sure we actually do it, even when you think you’re too busy. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Jenny Drew is the owner of Sew Confident, a sewing school and shop in Glasgow, with franchises in Chorley and Dundee.

You can follow the @sewconfident goings on via Instagram, and keep and eye on Jenny @sewconfidentjenny. 

Jenny is passionate about supporting and encouraging women and creatives in business. She’s turned everything she’s learnt into a book: ‘Stop Playing Small: Turn obstacles into advantages and enjoy unapologetic success whilst building a creative business to be proud of!’

Sign up to their waiting list for more info on the next round of their Confident Capsule Collection class series. 

To celebrate the milestone of 100 episodes, I wrote a list of 100 lessons that I’ve learnt (or relearnt) through making this podcast! From that, I selected ten that had the biggest impact on me, and in this episode I divulge what they are. Plus, we’ll hear from some wonderful listeners from across the globe who share the things they’ve taken away also…

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

If you’d like to read all 100 lessons, you can access the documents by clicking the links below.

I’ve split these lessons up into four categories:

• Mindset and Motivation
• Materials
• Stitching, Fitting, Adjusting and Mending
• And stuff I’ve learnt about making a podcast

Thanks so much for listening!

Friends-of-the-podcast, Julia and Naomi, are back! The three of us make some sewing-related confessions…. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

This episode features Julia Hincks. Her website is House of Miss Sew and you can find her at @juliahincks on Instagram. 

She previously featured on:

Episode #10: Overlockers & Coverstitch Machines with Julia Hincks

Episode #27: Zoe & Julia go Rag Rugging

Episode #67: Zoe and Julia Sew with Reclaimed Denim

This episode also features Naomi Bancroft and you can find her at @whatnaomimade on Instagram. 

They both appeared in Episode #53: First Birthday / Ask me Anything with Zoe, Julia and Naomi. 

Yet again, I talk about the Four Tendencies framework, developed by writer and podcaster, Gretch Rubin. Find out which of the Four Tendencies you adhere to with Gretchen Rubin’s free quiz. 

Image source: Gretchen Rubin. 

Want to hear about an exciting new development in zero waste sewing? ZW designer Birgitta Helmersson has written an incredible new book that presents a fresh approach to making your own clothes with minimal waste. Birgitta is back on the podcast to tell us all about it, plus she shares tips on using second hand linens for ZW garment projects.  

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Image credit: Emli Bendixon

Discover designer Birgitta Helmersson’s clothing and sewing patterns on her website, and over on Instagram @birgittahelmersson.

Listen to Birgitta’s previous appearances on CYT:

• Episode 54: A Journey to Zero Waste with Birgitta Helmersson
• Episode 55: The Challenges of Zero Waste Design with Birgitta Helmersson

Find out more about Birgitta’s ‘Zero Waste Patterns’ book, including links for where to buy it in different parts of the world. 

ZW pattern designer Liz Haywood wrote a fantastic review of Birgitta’s book. Liz’s version of the vintage shirt is incredible!

The Zero Waste Design Collective is an amazing resource to explore what’s happening in the world of ZW more broadly.

A garment project that fails because it’s made from unsuitable fabric is both heartbreaking and costly. But navigating the selection available in fabric shops and online can feel overwhelming, particularly if you’re new to garment sewing, or have recently returned after some years. So in this solo episode, we’re going back to the basics of fabric. We’ll be laying the foundations on which to build our knowledge of fabric types, and what garment styles each fabric is suitable for. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

The custom croquis app is MyBodyModel.

If you enjoyed Episode #50: The Future of Fabrics that I made last year, then I thoroughly recommend you listen to Episode #188: Future Fabrics: Sustainable Textiles Masterclass with Amanda Johnston of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast. 

This week’s episode is the second with pattern cutting and fit expert, Kate Roberts from Project Patterns. We talk about how we can build up our own bank of fitting knowledge, and we get into some trouser fitting nitty gritty. Kate also explores how to adapt seemingly gendered sewing patterns for different bodies. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

You can find my road test/review of the free laminated wash bag tutorial by Polkadot Chair on my blog.

Find Kate’s business, Project Patterns, via her website, on Instagram @projectpatterns and also on YouTube.

Listen to Kate’s previous episode on CYT, Episode #95: Refining Fit with Kate Roberts.

We spoke about the Palmer and Pletsch ‘Pants for Real People’ and  the Palmer, Alto and Weiland ‘Fit for Real People’ tissue fitting books. 

Kate offers a range of online pattern drafting and fitting courses, with both live and recorded options available.

Clayton referenced sewist @_donnyq on Instagram. 

Donny Q on IG.

Have your mind blown (I just did!) on DRESSX - a digital garment shop.

The pattern drafting books by Winifred Aldrich are a fantastic starting point for anyone wanting to create their own blocks and patterns. 

How much time do you set aside during your sewing project for fitting and making pattern adjustments? An hour? Half a day? None at all? Pattern cutter and fitting expert Kate Roberts tells us why we can’t expect sewing patterns to fit right out of the pack. Kate also shares her TNT method for assessing the fit of a garment, and gives awesome tips for successful solo fit sessions. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

I will be teaching how to make Birgitta’s Helmersson’s ZW Cropped Shirt pattern in a class at Fabric Godmother on 16th September. Check out the listing if you’re interested. 

Find Kate’s business, Project Patterns, via her website, on Instagram @projectpatterns and also on YouTube.

Kate offers a range of online pattern drafting and fitting courses, with both live and recorded options available.

Enjoy the ‘Pattern Diaries’ made with Charlotta Ayers from Charlotta’s Patterncutting School.   Kate uses the spot and cross pattern paper from William Gee (UK based).  

This week I’m mixing things up and sharing an episode of the Garmology podcast by Nick Johannessen, AKA Well Dressed Dad. This episode features a genuinely engrossing conversation between Nick and his guest Rosanna Watson about outdoor gear and professional repair. If you’re interested in mending or product design, this is a must-listen.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find everything Garmology podcast related, along with the Well Dressed Dad blog, on Nick’s website. 

Garmology is a podcast about "clothes, and stuff", menswear, fashion, ethical and sustainably made, old and new, from a perspective of making, buying, wearing, collecting, evaluating and appreciating. With regular co-hosts and interesting guests, the aim is to provide a view of what we might wear and what we should wear, if we knew more about it. Expect plenty of opinions!

Image source: Nick Johannessen.

Follow Nick on Instagram @welldresseddad.

Rosanna Watson’s business is Snowdonia Gear Repair.

This episode’s original episode page can be found on the Well Dressed Dad website.  

Most of us who listen to (and make!) this podcast are used to thinking about sewing as a pastime and option for clothing ourselves. A hobby with many wonderful benefits. But for others, sewing skills are a powerful tool that can change lives: preventing isolation, providing connection, offering employment opportunities and raising self-esteem. Poornima Kirloskar-Saini started a social enterprise called Kundakala, in memory of her extraordinary mother, which is achieving all these things. In this episode, Poornima tells me all about this incredible and inspiring organisation, and the women whose lives it is changing.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Discover more about the Kundakala social enterprise via their website. Follow them on Instagram @kundakala_org and via Twitter: @KundakalaOrg. 

Read about Kunda, Poornima’s extraordinary mother, the inspiration behind the whole endeavour. 

The scarves featuring Kunda’s paintings, stitched by the women taking the Make and Mend workshops, are available to purchase with all proceeds going to support more workshops. 

Poornima’s day job is for the Cook for Good enterprise. 

Once attendees have graduated from the Make and Mend programme, they can go on to participate in the Saree Upcycle Project. 

How can we get a handle on our recurring sewing struggles? And what are the steps we need to take to coach ourselves through them? Building on from last episode’s discussion on gathering self knowledge, transformational coach and crafter, Kim Witten, gives us some practical, actionable steps we can take for greater sewing success and enjoyment. We also explore how to fall in love (or at least like) with garments that are associated with a fraught making experience, plus choosing when is a good time to take on sewing challenges.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Please complete the short Me-Made-May Workbook survey!

Sign up to the Check Your Thread newsletter! You won’t regret it…. (but if you do, you can unsubscribe at any time).

Find more about Kim’s work on her website, plus her excellent blog with a library of fantastic resources. 

Sign up to her weekly ‘Hold That Thought’ newsletter to help you turn your overthinking into expert thinking. 

Listen to Kim’s previous appearances on CYT: 

Episode #71: Making Personal Manifestos with Kim Witten

Episode #71: Self Knowledge for Sewing Success with Kim Witten

How much do you really know yourself, and how does self knowledge relate to your enjoyment of sewing? Yep, today we’re tackling some big questions with transformational coach and crafter, Kim Witten. What kind of learner are you? How closely do you follow the ‘rules’? What patterns of behaviour do you display when presented with challenges? We get into all this and learn how we can use self awareness to make positive changes that lead to more sewing satisfaction. We also hear about Kim’s unique and multi-layered pledge for this year’s Me-Made-May challenge, and the many takeaways she acquired from her first challenge. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Learn more about @SewOver50’s excellent new endeavour #SewWhatYouNeedJune that comes on the back of a hectic Me-Made-May!

Find more about Kim’s work on her website, plus her excellent blog with a library of fantastic resources. 

Sign up to her weekly ‘Hold That Thought’ newsletter to help you turn your overthinking into expert thinking. 

Listen to Kim’s previous appearance of CYT in Episode #71: Making Personal Manifestos with Kim Witten.

If you need some help prioritising self care, download Kim’s free Self Care Menu Worksheet.

Find the Stash Hub app on their website, on IG @stash_hub, or in your smart phone’s app store. 

Kim’s Me-Made-May article on Medium is a fascinating read, and such an interesting and multi-layered take on the challenge. 

Kim started and progressed on her sewing journey with the help of sewing classes at Ministry of Craft in Manchester, UK.

Find out which of the Four Tendencies you adhere to with Gretchen Rubin’s free quiz. 

Image source: Gretchen Rubin. 

If procrastination (including procrasti-learning!) is something you regularly experience, the DUST model can help you understand it and to get yourself unstuck. 

Have you ever tried pattern hacking (making changes to a sewing pattern to create a different look)? This episode is a wide ranging introduction to the topic. Whether you are new to this practice, or are a more seasoned ‘hacker’, by the end of this you should feel emboldened by the infinite possibilities!  

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

The patchwork denim quilted jacket is finally finished! Read all about it on my blog. 

One way of thinking about pattern hacking is by breaking it down into these three approaches:

1. Pattern-first - that is Choosing a pattern you own and considering how you can alter it to come up with a different look
2. Style-first - that is finding inspiration for a garment from elsewhere, then looking through your patterns to find a good candidate to hack to get close to that inspiration.
3. Frankensteining - taking two existing sewing patterns, or the parts of existing sewing patterns, and splicing them together to create a different looking garment. 

My Fibre Mood Ermine/Norma Franken-garment is an example of taking the sleeve piece from one pattern and the bodice from another to create a new look.

Suggested equipment for pattern hacking:

• Large format paper / pattern cutting or drafting paper / the dot and cross type or plain. Also consider large sheets of paper from an art shop or printing shop, the back of wide rolls of wrapping paper or rolls of paper from a business that regularly prints out plans and so on
• Some kind of ruler or set square (a metre or yard ruler is also super helpful)
• Pattern weights or pins
• Sharp pencils 
• Paper scissors
• Some kind of tape such as scotch, masking or washi tape
• Tape measure

This week we’re diving into the world of quilting more sustainably! Quilter and textile artist, Bridget O’Flaherty, makes Threads of Sustainability: a podcast with remarkably similar motivations to CYT. We discuss the many parallels between our perspective disciplines in relation to sustainability, and some of the areas where they diverge.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Tips on how to build and maintain beneficial bee hotels by the Entomologist Lounge. 

How to encourage bees and other pollinators:

• Fill gardens with pollinator friendly plants.
• Allow lawn 'weeds' to flower by cutting less often.
• Provide water for pollinators.
• Avoid using pesticides wherever possible and never spray open flowers.
• Provide nest sites for wild bees.

Find out about the many facets of Bridget’s work, including her podcast, ‘Threads of Sustainability’, via her website. She can also be found on Instagram @thesustainablequilter. 

Image source: Bridget O’Flaherty

Bridget frequently uses a technique called thread painting in her work:

Image source: Bridget O’Flaherty

You can hear the conversation we recorded for Bridget’s podcast via her website, wherever you listen to podcasts. It’s Episode #26!

The conversation that Bridget had with Eliu Hernandez that first alerted me to the Threads of Sustainability podcast is Episode #18. 

Listen to my conversation with Eliu for this podcast: 

Episode #26: Harvesting Materials with Eliu Hernandez. 

The Festival of Quilts that takes place in Birmingham, UK, recently introduced a Sustainability category. 

Bridget wrote a series of articles for the Canadian Quilters’ Association. Read part one, part two and part three. 

Bridget appeared on Episode #64 of the ‘Quilter on Fire’ podcast which kick started her desire to create her own podcast.

Bridget cites these quilters and textile artists as inspiration:

• Zak Foster 
• Eliu Hernandez
• Janine Heschl

Do you have questions about natural dyeing? Like, what is the most accessible way to have a go? Return-guest and natural dye expert, Amy Taylor, breaks it all down and answers all the questions submitted by CYT listeners. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Ms Amy Taylor at her website and on Instagram @msamytaylor. 

Listen to Amy’s first appearance on Check Your Thread:

Episode #13: Natural Dyeing with Amy Taylor. 

The naturally dye skeins I found at Seedy Sunday in Brighton in February 2023:

Listen to Episode #52: Grow, Cook, Dye, Wear with Bella Gonshorovitz.

Amy is a big fan of Bella’s book, Bella’s book, ‘Grow, Cook, Dye, Wear – From seed to style the sustainable way’.

Read the article Amy wrote with her dad, ‘Art at the edge of chaos: Shibori and Indigo’. 

Amy has taken a class with dye stuff growing expert Kristin Field @fieldandgardner on Instagram. 

Amy and I both LOVE following Alexis Nikole AKA @blackforager on Instagram. 

Recommended reading: ‘Braiding Sweetgrass’ by Robin Wall Kimmerer:

Were you unable to attend the Sew Sustainable Fair in London last month? Would you have liked to have been there? Well, through the power of audio, in this episode you can come along with me to the event! Hear some of the awesome conversations I had with the organisers, helpers and businesses in attendance, plus my ramblings as I travel to and from the venue. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find some info about this year’s event, plus keep an eye on the details for next year’s as they are revealed, at the Sew Sustainable Fair website. 

The event is organised by Sarah Richards, owner of Olive Road London, a source for original vintage fabrics. 

Sarah told me about ‘Secrets of the Singer Girls’ and ‘Secrets of the Sewing Bee’, both books written by her friend Kate Thompson.

The Sew Sustainable Fair took place at the wonderful Craft Central building. 

Other sellers at the event included:

• Bornella Fabrics
• Missy Mop Fabrics
• Maven Sewing Patterns

Find Rebecca Evans-Merritt on IG @revansmerritt

Listen to my previous conversations with her:

Episode 24: Conscious Making in Real Life with Rebecca Evans-Merritt and

Episode 37: Pledge and Participants #1 with Rebecca and Meg

When I met Rebecca in real life, she was wearing her Birgitta Helmersson ZW Gather Dress in Merchant and Mills Lunar Jacquard. 

We also discussed her railroad stripe two-piece and her Refashioners project lounge wear set. 

Find the Stash Hub app on their website, on IG @stash_hub, or in your smart phone’s app store. 

You can contact Yvette’s friend Mel who works with the charity Guildford Refugee Aid via their Facebook page. 

Find Louise’s business, Ethel & Joan, on her website, Etsy shop and IG @ethelandjoan. 

Louise used to make videos for the Youtube channel, Pattern Pals.

We talked about her popular flower buckles. 

My favourites are the turquoise Deco buttons.

Do you have garments in your wardrobe, self-made or otherwise, that you really like but you never wear because they don’t fit you well? Could you use some advice on how to approach the alteration process, evaluate those garments and work out what’s possible? Alterations expert, Naomi Fata, talks with me about all this and more. We cover when it’s worth attempting an alteration, when it’s better to live with the issue, and when it’s time to find the garment a new owner. Plus, Naomi shares her hot takes on the best ways to make garments smaller and larger, and we even get stuck into the thorny issue of trouser fitting…

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find the Me-Made-May Workbook in the new CYT shop! 

Find Naomi Fata on her website and on Instagram @naomifata. 

Naomi was on The Strike a Balance for Working Homeschool Moms podcast talking about how she runs her sewing business whilst homeschooling her three children. 

Find out about the in-person and virtual sewing and alteration classes Naomi teaches.  This Fit Tip Tuesday video by J Stern Designs on YouTube shows how to add a gusset to lengthen a rise on an existing garment.

Do you consider yourself a climate activist? If many of your everyday life decisions are made with the planet in mind, then you definitely should. Rachel, AKA The Crap Activist, chose to fast track her activism by making one positive change every single day for an entire year. She shares her surprising wins and fails, and gives tips on successfully bringing your family along for the ride…

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find and follow The Crap Activist on Instagram @thecrapactivist.

Listen to Rachel speak to Jen Gale on Jen’s Sustainable(ish) podcast:

Episode 87: The Crap Activist - A Year of Imperfect Action.

Rachel received The Sustainable(ish) Living Guide by Jen Gale. 

The seed for The Crap Activist challenge was sown by listening to the Christmas Adam & Joe episode of the Adam Buxton podcast:

Episode 115: Adam & Joe.

This post by The Crap Activist includes the following mind boggling facts from the Chatham House Report:

• By 2050, the world will need 50% more food to survive because of our growing population 
• But global agricultural yield is projected to decrease by 30% by 2050, as a direct consequence of climate change... Weather extremes, temperature extremes, extreme climate events like fires & flooding, etc

Find out about the interesting and important work going on through the London Freedom Seed Bank.

Consider growing something from the dirty dozen foods list:

(Image source: Nature’s Corner Natural Market)

Favourites of Rachel’s daughters are clothing brands Glass Onion and We Are Cow.

Are you planning to challenge yourself in Me-Made-May this year? Have you taken part in the past? Are you not sure what I’m talking about? Or do you have a good idea, but you’d like a refresher? This explainer episode tells you everything you need to know to get the most from the annual wardrobe challenge that I accidentally started 14 years ago! 

Note: this episode originally aired in March 2022. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find out more about the Sew Sustainable Fair that will take place in London on 22/4/23, including how to register for your free ticket. 

Check out my husband's latest scrappy sweatshirt on my blog.

What is Me-Made-May?

Me-Made-May is a wardrobe challenge that encourages you to wear your existing handmade items more, or in different ways, that will allow you to gain useful insights whilst having fun. This will help you improve your relationship with your handmade items, both your existing items, and those you may make in the future. 

What Me-Made-May isn’t

• a making challenge
• a photo challenge
• a competition
• about having heaps of handmade clothes

Who is Me-Made-May for?

Anyone who has made/mended/upcycled at least one item, who feels there's improvements to be made in their wardrobe. Who doesn’t trust those items

What they wear often doesn’t reflect how they feel or would like to be seen. 

Anyone who would like to learn about their style, wardrobe requirements, 

How do I take part?

The aim is to intentionally wear your handmade items more and/or in different ways throughout May 2023.

Design your own pledge outlining the specifics of your challenge before 1st May. You can keep this entirely to yourself, tell friends and family, or share this on social media, whatever you wish. 

If you’re not sure what to write, check out the following episodes:

Episode 37: Pledges and Participants #1: with Rebecca and Meg

Episode 38: Pledges and Participants #2: with Amy and Judith

What are the benefits of refashioning for those of us who like to sew our own clothes? For years, Portia Lawrie has focused her creativity on refashioning, and has just written an excellent book, ‘The Re:fashion Wardrobe’, which contains all her hard-won knowledge, approaches and tips. In this episode, Portia makes the case for why more of YOUR projects should start with existing textiles…

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find your MP and insist they take the IPCC report to heart and act to speed the transition to renewable energy.

Find Portia Lawrie on Instagram @portialawrie. 

Her new book, ‘The Re:fashion Wardrobe’, is published by Search Press. 

Portia has been making refashioning and no-pattern projects for Simply Sewing magazine since its launch. 

Wendy Ward made an incredible men’s jacket-to-coat refashion for the ‘Suits You’ round of The Rashioners in 2017.

Could you sew only with second hand fabric? No more fabric shopping, only thrifting and receiving donations. Would that feel frustrating, or would it unlock some inner creativity and resourcefulness? Space scientist and passionate maker, Rachel Kirby, sews almost exclusively within this limitation, and spills the tea on how and why it works for her. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Rachel Kirby can be found on her website, @fibre.and.space on Instagram and @GeoPlaneteer on Twitter. 

Rachel’s self-designed Solar System jumper went viral!

Rachel was inspired by Samantha @pippy_eve on Instagram to try her hand at sewing her first garment by using the Justine skirt pattern by Ready to Sew and some cotton fabric she found at an op shop.

The only piece of from-the-bolt fabric Rachel has used for herself was to make some Arenite pants, pattern by Sew Liberated. 

Image source: Rachel Kirby

Listen to Episode 69: Making Mindfully with Judy Williment-Ross.

Rachel’s TNT (‘tried and tested’, or ‘tried and true’) patterns:

• Hinterland dress pattern by Sew Liberated
• Gilbert top pattern by Helen’s Closet 
• Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet 

Image source: Rachel Kirby

Will you be taking any trips this year? Are you a short, city-break kind of traveller, or do you have a more adventurous trip planned? There’s no denying that travel in any form has an environmental impact to some degree, but how can we travel more sustainably? And how can sewing help us to do that? CYT regular, Shams el-Din Rogers, and I discuss all this and more, and in the process offer up heaps of suggestions that you can apply to YOUR next trip!

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Shams el-Din Rogers on Instagram @shamseldinrogers.

Listen to her on previous episodes of CYT:

• Ep.#32: Textile Activism with Shams el–Din Rogers 
• Ep.#49: Sewing as Art and Political Action with Shams el–Din Rogers
• Ep.#77: Stashes and Spaces with Shams el–Din Rogers

I have used the Raspberry Rucksack pattern by Sarah Kirsten.

Image source: Sarah Kirsten. 

Noodlehead is a great source of sewing patterns for all sorts of bags, pouches and wallets. 

Sham wrote an excellent post about making clothes bags for her husband from some polyester fabric, and why that’s a good use for this damaging fibre type. 

Polka Dot Chair have made a list of 40 free zip pouch sewing tutorials.

Previous conversations on Check Your Thread about the portability of hand stitching include:

• Ep.#15: Hand Stitching Clothes with Louisa Owen Sonstroem
• Ep.#73: The Seeds of Slow Sewing with Alexis Bailey

Do you ever think about all the useful stuff that gets thrown away, every single day, and how to get it into the hands of people who need it? Return-guest Noah Hirsch tells us all about his dumpster diving and mutual aid activities which help feed and clothe members of his community. Plus, he shares some exciting plans…

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Noah Hirsch on Instagram @yung_curmudgeon

Listen to Noah’s first appearance on the podcast, Episode 45: The Art of Rescue with Noah Hirsch.

Noah posts monthly Dumpster Diving Reports (such as January’s), sharing the sheer quantity and range of items he is able to rescue and leave at the Sunnyland Free Pantry. 

This is the second episode with Seamwork owner, Sarai Mitnick. In this one Sarai shares the fascinating story of how Seamwork became B-corp certified, and her motivations for going through that challenging process. And Sarai offers up insights and ideas for making your sewing process more intentional that you can apply today.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Sarai is the founder and owner of the Seamwork community and pattern company. 

You can download the Seamwork Wardrobe Planner for free. 

Learn more about the B-corp certification process for businesses. 

Sarai was inspired, in different ways, by the following books:

• ‘Growing a Business’ by Paul Hawken
• ‘The Great Game of Business: Unlocking the Power and Profitability of Open-Book Management’ by Jack Stack 
• ‘Conscious Capitalism: Liberating the Heroic Spirit of Business’ by John Mackey 

The Seamwork team is making a quilt from scraps for Project Linus. 

Sarai uses Milanote to create digital vision boards. 

Did you know that Seamwork has a YouTube channel? 

This is the first of two episodes with Sarai Mitnick, a major influence in the sewing scene for over 15 years. Sarai chats with me about the birth and evolution of the online sewing community, and the role that her businesses, Colette Patterns and Seamwork, have played. Plus Sarai talks about how her own podcast, Seamwork Radio, has changed, from being a storytelling platform to a medium to spread a slow-sewing philosophy.  

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Come along to the Sew Sustainable Fair in London on 22/4/23

Threads article about creating an elastic insert at the side seams of tailored trousers. 

Sarai is the founder and owner of the Seamwork community and pattern company. 

The Colette Patterns Beignet skirt pattern is now available via Seamwork. 

I made my own version in red twill back in 2009! 

Sarai was inspired by Knitty Magazine. 

Seamwork Radio is a podcast hosted by Sarai and Hayley. 

Episode 1: A Radical Change in Confidence with Jenny Rushmore from Cashmerette is one of Sarai’s very favourites that they’ve made.

Sustainability-related episodes of Seamwork Radio include:

• Episode 85 : How can I use more of the fabric I buy? 
• Episode 87: How can I get more wear out of the things I sew?
• Episode 111:  Six fabric shopping rules that everyone should know

One of my very favourite podcast guests is back! Textile activist Shams el-Din Rogers and I have a fun and thought-provoking conversation about fabric stashes, storage and space. As always, Shams brings her insight and wisdom as we explore many of the implications of these topics as they relate to sustainability, and we compare notes as an American and a European. Plus! Shams sets herself a goal...

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Shams el-Din Rogers on Instagram @shamseldinrogers.

Listen to her on previous episodes of CYT. Ep.#32: Textile Activism with Shams el–Din Rogers and Ep.#49: Sewing as Art and Political Action with Shams el–Din Rogers.

I also highly recommend checking out Shams’ episode on Stitch Please: the Black Women Stitch podcast, Ep.#123: Don’t Trash it! Sew it!: Sustainable Creativity with Shams el-Din Rogers. 

Explore ‘Works in Progress Toronto’ via their website and on Instagram @works.in.progress.to.

Instagram based contests that Shams is participating in:

#lastsewiststanding created by @miss.taeschli.

#whole30fabricchallenge created by @pinkmimosabyjacinta.

Textile Museum of Canada is in Toronto and has a truly epic-looking shop!

Shams recently bought some issues of Tauko magazine.

Image source: Tauko Magazine

Check out two blog posts I made including round-ups of free kid’s patterns. There’s My Favourite Free Children’s Sewing Patterns and Fab Free Kids’ Patterns for 6 and Up.

Listen to Ep.#11: Kids Vs. Sewing and Ep.#33: Encouraging Kids to Sew and

I use the the basic version of the Trello app to catalogue and manage my fabric stash and project ideas. 

Shams’ goal is based on the 2-door Pax wardrobes made by Ikea.