Check Your Thread: Sewing More Sustainably

For Episode 26, I had the pleasure of talking with Eliu Hernandez, a quilter and maker whose work focuses on reclaimed denim. Eliu has developed an approach to deconstructing unwanted jeans that allows him to harvest as much as possible to reuse again, including the belt loops, pockets, leather patches and even the thread! I loved nerding out about denim with him, and even if denim isn’t your jam, this conversation may help you take reusing garments to a whole new level. We also discuss the portability of hand stitching and unpicking, crafting as a new parent, and consider the likelihood of a pair of jeans having been worn to rob a bank! 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Eliu on his IG feed @madeorremade HERE. 

Eliu has made a series of quilts entitled ‘Waist Not’, which are made almost entirely from reclaimed materials, including the backing and thread used for quilting (see below).

‘Cutting Up Jeans’ is a fabulous little zine that Eliu made in collaboration with quilt artist Zak Foster. You can purchase it HERE. 

Find out more about Zak Foster HERE. 

Find out more about Heidi Parkes HERE. 

Eliu makes use of the reclaimed zips from deconstructed jeans by making these wonderful, and very useful, zippered pouches (see below):

A selection of Eliu’s reclaimed, handmade, leather thimbles:

For our quarter-century episode, I’m having a deep dive into the topic of handmade period pants with lingerie and pattern designer, Yelena Buck. If you’re a period haver, or there’s one in your close family, this episode might convince you to try making some if you haven’t already. We talk about the benefits of period pants in general, and self-made ones specifically, plus the ingredients that go into them, and how to launder them so they’ll last for many years. Yelena also expands on some of the other more sustainable aspects of her business, plus offers advice for garment makers who want to branch out into making undies, including ways to save money and resources whilst doing so. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Yelena’s business, Sew projects via its website HERE and Instagram feed HERE.

Yelena sewing in her narrow boat!

The Moontide Period Pants PDF pattern is available HERE. 

The kits (with or without pattern) including all materials required to make the period pants are available HERE.

Read my blog post reviewing the undies pattern and kit HERE. I love my teal version:

Welcome to Episode 24 with the wonderful Rebecca Evans-Merritt, a maker that I’ve long admired for both her gorgeous makes, AND her intelligent, thoughtful approach to making. Last year she created a talk for the Fold Line sewing weekender event entitled Slow and Conscious Making that included suggestions on how we can improve the sustainability of our sewing. Finally! I thought, a reason to get in touch with Rebecca and get her to talk to me! In this conversation we discuss those definitions and get into the realities of slow and conscious making: what it looks like in real life and how it can get tricky. We talk about both our methods for planning our makes, and how being ‘particular’ about what she wears helps keep Rebecca on track with living out her values. You’d think that given the subject matter, this would be quite a serious conversation but it was actually so much fun to have. It’s probably the episode in which I laughed the most whilst recording. Enjoy!

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

The blog post where I review the free School Cool dress pattern for dolls that I mentioned in the intro is HERE. 

Find Rebecca Evans-Merritt’s Instagram HERE where she shares her beautiful, wearable makes and styling tips. 

Watch Rebecca’s Slow and Conscious Making talk HERE. 

A screenshot from her talk is below:

Rebecca mentioned:

• Give your best charity HERE. 
• Sunny Jar Eo Hub social enterprise HERE. 
• Monica @slowrituals.studio HERE. 
• Alexis @fibrandclothstudio HERE. 
• New Craft House HERE #sewyourselfsustainable

Happy New Year! Episode 23 is a solo one made with a helpful dose of listener feedback. The start of a new year is a great time to think about new habits you’d like to implement going forwards. I’ve collected a whole heap of goals related to sewing more sustainably that listeners intend to focus on during 2022, and I’ve thrown in some additional suggestions of my own. If you like the idea of setting goals or aims at this time of year and could do with a dose of inspiration, or you just like thinking about sewing, then this episode is for you!

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

The goals outlined in this episode are:

Slow Sewing.

Listen to Episode 15 with Louisa Owen Sontroem about hand sewing clothing HERE. 

My denim shirt to Anthea blouse upcycle can be found HERE.

Questioning which fibres you sew with.

Learn more about Oeko-tex certification HERE. 

Learn more about GOTS certification HERE.

Listen to Episode 20 about what threads are available for home sewing HERE.  

Only make things you’ll actually wear.

Find out more about Me-Made-May HERE. 

Try a new technique or skill.

Make some eco product swaps.

Try making fabric shopping bags and produce bags, cloth napkins for using at meal times, washable sandwich bags, fabric bowl covers for food storage, washable make-up remover wipes, washable sanitary pads or liners, or period pants. Make pouches to contain cutlery, chopsticks, napkins and reusable straws will help you be less reliant on the disposable versions when you’re out and about.

Tackle your mending or altering pile.

Modern Mending by Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald HERE. 

Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh HERE. 

Mend it, Wear it, Love it! by Zoe Edwards (me!) HERE. 

Rework, remake or upcycle the items in your wardrobe that aren’t working for you. 

Using your existing stash!

Find the Happier Podcast with Gretchen Rubin HERE (abstainers and moderators).

More info on the Make Nine challenge HERE. 

It’s the last episode of CYT for 2021, and a first for the podcast: a conversation involving three people! I talk to Carla Bruni, the founder and organiser of Community Glue Workshops which are regular, free mending events taking place in Chicago, and Megan Grandstaff, who is one of the talented and dedicated volunteers, who specialises in fixing clothing and textile items. We get into the origin story of this almost-ten-year-old enterprise, and learn the keys to its massive success. How does the season affect how they prepare for the events? And why did CGW introduce a ‘launder first’ rule?! If you’re interested in setting up a mending workshop of some description, this is essential listening. The conversation also goes in other fascinating sustainability and mending related directions. Both Carla and Meg are incredibly intelligent and experienced people, so I know you’re going to love this end of year conversation… 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find the Community Glue Workshop website HERE and on Instagram HERE. 

It’s Episode 21 of CYT, and today we’re busting a big myth: that you have to be completely serious and joyless to be passionate about the environment, or to have any impact. I’m chatting with New Zealand based sewing teacher, maker and sustainability phenomenon, Sarah Lancaster, AKA Sarah Sew Love. (You can also hear her cat, Forest, in the background!) She shows us that having a vibrant aesthetic and awesome energy really helps her engage with others over important topics. We talk about how she set up a social enterprise to share sewing and mending skills around NZ, and how making more sustainable choices can bring your life extra layers of enjoyment rather than restricting it. She also shares her love of creating with reclaimed fabric to make her fantastic product range, how she scored her most precious piece of fabric, and her dream sewing tattoo! Be prepared to feel the (sew)love! 

Listen to Ep. 124 of the Sustainable (ish) podcast with writer J.B. Mackinnon about his book ‘The Day The World Stops Shopping’ HERE. 

Read the Guardian article about the study looking into the productivity of small scale food growing HERE.

Find Sarah Sew Love and her joyful aesthetic on Instagram HERE.  

Her Etsy shop where she sells bumbags and towel ponchos is HERE. 

The amazing video of Sarah showing how to wear your bum bag depending on your dancing style is HERE.

Sarah works for Xtreme Zero Waste in Raglan, New Zealand. Learn more HERE and HERE.   

Other businesses and enterprises mentioned:

• Fabricabrac (fabric markets around NZ)  HERE. 
• My Keeper (sells and rents dresses and collaborated with Sarah on a range of bumbags) HERE.
• DIY Daisy (colourful inspiration and garment tutorials) HERE. 
• Señorita Awesumo, (Zero waste pattern designer in NZ, with my tattoo) HERE. 

Welcome to Ep. 20. In this solo episode, we literally check our thread! Of course, what fabrics we sew with is a big factor in the impact our garment sewing will have. And, increasingly, there are more and more options available to us to express our values and preferences in our thread choices as well. I break down the thread options for making our own clothes, then  offer up some criteria on which to judge each option to help you make your mind up about what to pick. I mention a lot of specific brands and product ranges as examples you may choose to buy in this episode. See below for details of the products discussed.

The criteria I came up with for deciding which threads to use:

• Is it made from a virgin resource or recycled one? 
• What environmental impact did the processing and dyeing have? 
• What social impact did the production have? 
• Will it biodegrade?
• How much does it cost to buy? 
• How many colours is it available in?
• What is the reel made of?
• How strong is it?
• How thick is it?
• How shiny is it? 

More on Oeko-tex certification HERE.  

More on GOTS certification HERE. 

**PLEASE NOTE: ALL LINKS TO WHERE TO BUY THE FOLLOWING THREADS ARE UK BASED COMPANIES**

Standard polyester thread:

The most well known brands are Gutermann (more info HERE), Mettler (more info HERE), Coats Moon and Drima.

Recycled rPET polyester thread:

Gutermann 100% recycled rPET thread (more info HERE, available in packs from Craft & Thrift HERE and singly from James Tailoring HERE) and Mettler offer 100% recycled rPET thread options. 

Mettler produce a range called Seracycle (more info HERE)

The Amann group who make one called Serafil (more info HERE)

Portuguese brand Crafil make one called Denimfil Eco (more info HERE, available HERE).

Regular cotton thread:

Cotton thread by Coats (available from C&H HERE)

Tre Cerchi range by Coats (available from Sewing Gem HERE and William Gee HERE)

Italian brand Aurifil (more info on medium weight HERE and lighter weight HERE) 

Gutermann cotton thread (more info HERE)

Organic cotton thread:

Organic cotton threads by Dutch company Scanfil (more info HERE, available singly HERE and on cones HERE)

Tencel thread:

Tencel thread range called Celofil by Crafil (more info HERE, medium weight available HERE, lighter weight available HERE)

Polyester covered cotton thread:

Rasant made by the Amann Group (more info HERE).   

Welcome to CYT! This episode (Ep.19) features a fascinating, wide-ranging and inspiring conversation with quilt-maker, Shelly Sommer. I thought we were going to be mainly discussing quilting, potentially as a way to use up fabric scraps and unwanted clothing, however Shelly is such an intelligent, thoughtful maker and human that our conversation ended up going off on a whole heap of interesting tangents. 

We did talk about the traditions, purposes and changing role of quilts, and that led to her making lots of great points about more considered approaches to consuming. We also talked about creative collaboration, her job that is related to climate science, her thoughts on a circular economy plus various forms of activism and their role in creating social change. Shelly was such a pleasure, and although we got into some heavy topics, I really came away feeling positive and empowered. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Shelly Sommer on Instagram @encodedstudio.

Almost since she began sewing Shelly has used her skills to add bands to thrifted garments to make them longer. Some examples of Shelly’s lengthened garments:

Some information on the quilters from Gees Bend, Alabama HERE.

Listen to the powerful BBC World Service Documentary about the Gees Bend Quilters HERE (you need to have a BBC account or register for one to listen). 

Shelly is part of the Boulder Modern Quilt Guild HERE.   

The collaboration between Shelly and her friend using the antique letterpress can be seen HERE and HERE (and see below).

Shelly makes a collaborative quilt with the young people in her life when they turn 13. Her latest project uses reclaimed denim from her husband’s old jeans:

Latifah Saafir’s Glam Clam quilt pattern HERE. 

My first attempt at a small baby’s floor quilt that used some pieces of work shirts HERE.

See a beautiful example of Shelly’s fabric scrap patchwork mosaics HERE (and see below):

Hilary Goodwin’s blog Entropy Always Wins HERE. Check out her incredible quilt about prescription narcotics HERE.

Sherri Lynn Wood HERE.    

Chawne Kimber’s blog HERE. 

One of Shelly’s favourite craft supply shop is Fancy Tiger Crafts that sends out their customers’ orders in fully recyclable packaging HERE.

Welcome to Episode 18. As you may have noticed, I’ve always got my eyes peeled for interesting and useful ways to use up fabric scraps. In this episode I’ve got for you a conversation with author and rag rug expert Elspeth Jackson, to coincide with the release of her new book Rag Rug Techniques for Beginners which is out this week. Elspeth has carved out a career for herself based on teaching and writing about rag rugging, as well as selling kits and related products through her business Ragged Life. We chat about the history of rag rugs, their shifting role in society and how Elspeth came to adopt the rag rug tradition as a form of creativity. She also tells me what’s the simplest way to get involved, and most significantly perhaps for our purposes, how it can help us make the most of even the smallest fabric scraps. 

Elspeth Jackson can be found via her website Ragged Life HERE and via Instagram @raggedlife. 

Her new book ‘Rag Rug Techniques for Beginners’ is available via her website HERE, and from good book sellers. 

Elspeth’s kits start from £19.99 for the basic kit, giving you an introduction to rag rugging HERE.

Welcome to Episode 17! So whilst clothing made using zero and low waste practices is as old as clothing itself, zero waste patterns available for home sewing is a relatively new phenomena. This episode is an introduction to the topic, and I plan to build on it in the future with conversations with zero waste designers and practitioners. 

The Zero Waste Fashion Design book by Holly McQuillan and Timo Rissanen via Bookshop.org HERE.

Liz Haywood’s Zero Waste Legacy Sewing ondemand class available HERE. 

Check out the Zero-Waste Pattern Database for a pretty comprehensive list of all ZW sewing patterns currently available HERE.

Birgitta Helmersson HERE.

Liz Haywood’s website, The Craft of Clothes, HERE.

Milan AV-JC HERE. 

Elbe Textile’s ZW Maynard dress pattern HERE, plus a free robe tutorial HERE. 

Make/Use HERE. 

CrisWood Sews HERE. 

Thread Faction Studio, ZW patterns for children’s wear, HERE. 

ZeroWasteDesignOnline HERE, plus on Instagram @zwdo_collective.

The amazing resource that is the Sewcialists blog has a whole series of posts as part of a Zero-Waste theme month they hosted in February HERE. 

Love to Sew podcast devoted an episode to discussing various aspects of zero-waste sewing,

Episode 180: Zero Waste Sewing HERE. 

Previous CYT guest, Wendy Ward, has a great blog post called Zero Waste Sewing HERE. 

Seamwork has a fantastic blog post called ‘Zero-Waste Design: the creation of wastefree garments’, written by Jessica Yen HERE. 

It’s Episode 16 of CYT, and the second that features my conversation with Louisa Owen Sonstroem. Last week we heard about how Louisa embraced and became an expert in hand sewing clothing. This week we talk about a different, but equally fascinating topic: a project Louisa started in 2019 called Patternmaking in Public Places. PIPP aims to democratise access to patternmaking, by bringing it out from behind closed doors and sharing it with the public. Louisa tells us about the two very different incarnations this project has had so far. Want to know what happened when she undertook live demonstrations in front of unsuspecting members of the public in the parks of NY? Plus, we learn how she ingeniously pivoted, as well as expanded, the project in the wake of Covid. Much of Louisa’s PIPP project can be enjoyed by all for free via Youtube, and this conversation provides some enthralling background.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find out all about Patternmaking in Public Places HERE.

View all of the recorded demos with different patternmakers on YouTube HERE, 

Louisa made a zine to commemorate and celebrate the project. You can buy a copy HERE. 

Welcome to Episode 15! Have you ever considered sewing a garment entirely by hand? I must admit that it had literally never occurred to me until I got to speak with today’s guest, Louisa Owen Sonstroem. This is the first of two Check Your Thread episodes with Louisa, and in this one we learn how a trained pattern cutter who works in the NY garment industry became an expert in this slow-sewing practice. We talk about how she fell in love with making her own clothes, but had an epiphany about her output of self-made garments, which reminded me of my conversation with Judith Staley for Episode 12 in fact. Louisa’s response was to embrace hand sewing garments, which for her opened up a whole new facet of creating. Louisa now teaches in person and online workshops and has written a beautiful self-illustrated book called ‘Hand Sewing Clothing: A Guide’. In this conversation we talk about the ins and outs, the whys and the hows, and we bust a big ol’ pile of myths about hand sewn clothing. 

In the introduction I recommended the following incredible podcast episodes to check out:

The Wardrobe Crisis with Clare Press, Ep 150: Liz Ricketts - Waste Colonialism and Dead White Man’s Clothes HERE.

The Sustainable(ish) Podcast with Jen Gale, Ep 118: A Beginner's Guide to COP26 HERE.

You can find Louisa Owen Sonstroem HERE. 

Louisa’s book and other products are available via her Etsy shop HERE.

In the UK, Louisa’s book can be bought from Beyond Measure HERE. 

Let’s be honest, for those of us who sew, spending a couple hours at our sewing machine is probably preferable to the same time spent wandering around the shops or trawling websites trying to find someone the perfect gift. In this solo episode, I’m sharing heaps of ideas for presents we can create for our loved ones that won’t take an age or cost us a mint. All these ideas should take no more than an evening to make, a lot of them use patterns or tutorials that are free, and pretty much all of them can be made from scraps and leftover fabric, or even unwanted clothing! 

I’ve broken these projects down into four categories: gifts for makers, simple accessories and clothing, homeware and gifts for kids. 

Gifts for makers:

Tool roll tutorial by The Book Hut can be found HERE.

Image source: The Book Hut

Stowe Bag pattern by Grainline Studio HERE.

Image source: Grainline Studio

Simple Accessories & Clothing Gifts:

Sorrento Bucket Hat pattern by Elbe Textiles HERE. 

Sandcastle Bucket Hat pattern by Waves & Wild HERE. 

Reversible Bucket Hat pattern by Oliver + S HERE. 

The Orton Bag pattern by Merchant & Mills HERE. In the episode I have said this is one is free however, it is now a paid-for pattern. 

The byTilly shopper bag from byGraziela Fabrics HERE.

Image source: byGraziela Fabrics

Scrunchie tutorial by Melly Sews HERE.  

Mittens pattern made by using wool knitwear by fibreandtwigs on Etsy HERE. 

Mandy Boat Tee pattern by Tessuti HERE. Read by review of this pattern HERE. 

Luna Tank pattern by Helen’s Closet HERE. 

Dominique Skirt pattern by Tilly and the Buttons HERE. 

My favourite face mask tutorial by Sophie Passmore HERE. 

Homeware Gifts: 

Apron pattern by Tessuti HERE.

Workaday Apron pattern by Merchant & Mills HERE.

Image source: Merchant & Mills 

Oven Mitt pattern by Bombazine HERE. Read by review of this pattern HERE. 

Fabric Bowl Cover tutorial by Hearth and Vine HERE. 

Image source: Hearth and Vine

Gifts for Kids:

40 Free Sewing Patterns for Gifts for Kids blog post HERE.

My Favourite Free Children’s Sewing Patterns blog post HERE.

Batman Costume tutorial by Fleece Fun HERE.

Image source: Fleece Fun

Pom Pom Tutu Skirt tutorial by Brit + Co HERE. 

Princess Dress Up Apron pattern by It’s Always Autumn HERE. 

Easy Apron pattern by Scattered Thoughts of a Crafty Mom HERE. 

Oven Mitt pattern by Made for Mermaids HERE. 

Gift Wrapping:

Furoshiki Wrapping Cloths tutorial by Wellness Mama HERE. 

I’ve been promising to cover natural dyeing techniques for a while now, and I’ve made good on that promise with this episode! I got to speak to a talented and experienced natural dye expert, Amy Taylor. A practitioner and teacher based in Chicago, Amy shares so much information in this extended episode of CYT. We go into the history and techniques, plus she busts some myths and tells us some fun stories of her experiences dyeing fabric with natural substances. If you ever had any questions about this topic, this episode is for you!

Ms Amy Taylor website HERE and Instagram @msamytaylor. 

Amy’s first natural dye teacher was Akemi Cohn who can be found HERE. 

The teacher Amy had in Oaxaca, Mexico is Elsa Sanchez Diaz. I couldn’t find a direct contact for her, but you can find some wonderful pictures of her and her dye workshops on THIS BLOG. 

One is Amy’s favourite natural dye substances is cochineal which makes an incredible, rich fuchsia colour (pictured below).

Amy’s most popular products are the tie dyed briefs undies (pictured below), found HERE.

A collaboration with designer Goli June Bridal resulted in stunning silk robes using the bundle dyeing technique using onion skins (pictured below), found HERE. 

Gasali Adeyemo, Indigo dye expert HERE.

Michel Garcia, sustainable dye practice HERE.

Maiwa, natural dye supply store HERE.

Botanical Colors, suppliers and educators with Feedback Friday HERE.

Amy is also inspired by the following dyers, makers and organisations:

@thedogwooddyer

@silk&tulle

@birdy_sew_obsessed

@lauracastro.co

@ecotone.threads

@slowstitches.co

@jamiebourgeois

@allweremember 

@wearethreaded

Judith is the creator of, and one of the main driving forces behind, the biggest sewing community on Instagram, SewOver50. Whilst providing a virtual hub for conversation and inspiration for everyone, SewOver50 also pushes for the increased visibility of older people within sewing related industries. In our conversation, Judith tells me about the rapid creation of that community and the goals behind it. She also shares how her own revelations surrounding her wardrobe and sewing output sparked the idea for the fantastically inspiring challenge: #so50sustainablesewing. 

The blog post mentioned in the introduction about handmade washable period pants can be found HERE

Find Judith on Instagram @judithrosalind 

Read about Judith’s revelation in 2018 related to her wardrobe and sewing output HERE and HERE

Stacey Doodley’s documentary Fashion’s Dirty Secrets HERE (not currently available on iplayer but lots of clips are available on Youtube). 

The True Cost, a powerful documentary about the clothing industry, is available on Youtube HERE

See Judith below in one of her awesome tops made using the LB Pullover pattern by Paper Theory.

Judith has posted a lot about her Vintage Linen Coat Project, see below for the incredible way that she handled the rust spots, and read about it HERE. 

She’s using the September Coat pattern by Merchant & Mills. 

Judith’s Insta-pal @redrubyrose is a talented natural dye expert and accessories designer/maker.  

See one of Judith’s natural dye embroidery patches HERE.

The Destash for Kids with Cancer account is HERE (@destash_for_kids_with_cancer)

Find the Sew Over 50 community @sewover50, Judith founded it and co-runs it with Sandy @sunnydayz06 

The amazing blog and community, The Sewcialists is HERE (it’s no longer running but all posts are still up to enjoy)

Blanca @blakandblanca is an incredible older sewist who was the inspiration behind the Blanca Flight Suit pattern by Closet Core Patterns.

#so50sustainablesewing is the hashtag that is definitely worth checking out!  

Wardrobe Crisis podcast by Clare Press HERE.

Maria @velosews made an incredible jacket from a used coffee bean sack (pictured below). Check out her fantastic podcast Sew Organised Style HERE.

A big source of inspiration for Judith, and many others, is Tricia @morrissews.

Equally, Sue Stoney @suestoney is a talented maker and prolific creator. Read her blog HERE.

The Envelope Dress zero waste pattern by Cris Wood.  

In this solo episode of CYT, we’re taking the definition of sustainability in a different direction from the usual environmental meaning. I’m talking about how to sustain your sewing life when you are a parent, particularly of younger kids. It’s basically all the points that I eventually figured out for myself, but wish I’d heard when I first became a parent. If you aren’t a parent of young kids, don’t be thinking that this episode isn’t for you however. There’s lots in this that would apply to anyone who suddenly becomes busier or has been landed with new responsibilities. There are many causes that can lead us to get lost or deprioritised in life. And although this particular episode is about parenthood and includes a few points specific to that situation, it definitely works more broadly with lots of tips and perspectives that will be useful to many.  

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

It’s Episode 10 of the CYT podcast! We’re into double figures now! I’ve got a super interesting conversation for you today with Guy from The Light Touch London (soon to be Bristol). He’s a really thoughtful maker with heaps of fascinating ideas and projects, many of which we touch on in this episode. His investigations into clothing systems, and tracking your outfits enthralled me in particular, and we also get into the Fibreshed movement, the soil to soil life cycle of clothing, his love of wool, millennial sewers, decommissioning garments, making clothes from pieces-together textiles and more.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Guy and his many fascinating projects on Instagram @thelighttouchlondon. 

Read more about the Fibreshed movement and the soil-to-soil philosophy  HERE, and check out the diagram below that covers the main areas involved. 

Keeping British textile production alive are the Bristol Cloth Project HERE

Guy’s own experimentation resulted in a prototype felted wool waistcoat/vest, that could follow the Fibreshed model HERE, pictured below.

The next Southern Wool Show is scheduled for 3rd/4th September 2022, find out more HERE. 

Find designer/maker/inventor Rachel John (@racheljohntextiles) on Instagram HERE and her website HERE. The picture below features Rachel knitting a rug with giant needles (more info HERE). 

The hashtag where I ‘found’ Guy is #dopemensew on Instagram. 

Fashion on the ration book, available in paperback HERE. 

Guy’s pyjama top made from deconstructed shirts and his previous ‘decommissioned’ pyjama top HERE and pictured below.  

Overlord clothing brand that upcycles vintage textiles, transforming them into new clothing with a utility feel HERE. 

Closet Core Pouf free pattern and tutorial HERE, ideal for getting rid of tiny and unusable fabric scraps. 

Welcome to episode 9 of Check Your Thread. In this one, I chat to my friend and colleague Julia Hincks, who just so happens to be a sewing expert and author. She has written two amazing sewing books, The Overlocker Technique Manual (published in 2014) and The Coverstitch Technique Manual (which has just been released). If you already own an overlocker (AKA serger) or coverstitch machine, or you’re considering investing in either, you need to hear this conversation. Julia gives her expert advice on buying and maintaining these machines, and drops sooooooooo many awesome tips on how to get the most from them. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find details of Julia’s forthcoming teaching gigs and her books, plus video tutorials, pattern reviews and more on her website House of Miss Sew.

Find her on Instagram she’s @juliahincks, and her YouTube channel is House of Miss Sew. 

Julia’s first book, The Overlocker Technique Manual (pictured below), can be bought HERE. 

The US version, The Serger’s Technique Bible, is available HERE. The book has also been translated into Dutch, French, Spanish and Italian. 

Her second book, The Coverstitch Technique Manual (pictured below), is available in the UK HERE, and the Ebook version is available on Amazon. The US version of the physical book can be pre-ordered HERE. 

Julia’s current teaching gigs include dressmaking classes at Made and Making in Hassocks, East Sussex, UK, and pattern cutting at Dot to Dot Studio in East Hoathly, East Sussex, UK. 

Julia mentions the Babylock Euphoria coverstitch machine which you can see HERE . 

Kitchen appliance covers can be a great option if your overlocker didn’t come with a cover. The one pictured below is from Lakeland HERE. 

Sew Very Crafty has made a great video tutorial for making your own overlocker/serger cover which can be found HERE. 

It’s episode 8 of CYT, and in this solo episode I’ve posed myself the question: is sewing sustainable? I share my musings on the concept of sustainability, particularly as it relates to sewing, and how we need to be wary of over simplification and greenwashing. Plus I discuss what I consider to be the overarching goal for sewing in a more sustainable way, and ideas for how we can achieve it. Making clothing that fits our bodies, personal style and lifestyle requirements can guarantee that we’re making garments and accessories that will see lots of use and last us a long, long time. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Read about my recent linen Arden pants make HERE and see below, as mentioned in previous episode introductions. 

Check out my newly finished autumnal Vali blouse HERE and see below.

It’s Episode 7 of the Check Your Thread podcast and this one was such a joy to record. 

You may recognise Riccardo as one of the finalists of season 5 of the Great British Sewing Bee. However, Riccardo Guido started boldly and fearlessly experimenting with reclaimed fabrics and innovative approaches to garment sewing long before Joe Lycett ever muttered the phrase ‘Transformation Challenge’. Right from the beginning, Riccardo has forged his own path to making his own wardrobe, including signing up to learn pattern cutting before taking a sewing class, and to this day he rarely uses commercial sewing patterns. In our delightful conversation, he tells me about his sewing history, which of the aforementioned transformation challenges was his least favourite, his future sewing goals and lots more. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Riccardo Guido on Instagram @rifallo 

More on the Great British Sewing Bee HERE

Wendy Ward’s website HERE and her Check Your Thread podcast episode HERE

Riccardo’s sweatshirt using Wendy’s Felix sweatshirt pattern HERE (pictured below) using scuba off-cuts leftover from his tracksuit project from the GBSB

Find @sewandrew, maker of the embroidered chess piece HERE. Riccardo’s sweatshirt that developed around the embroidery HERE (pictured below)

Riccardo’s technique for piecing scraps HERE (the start of which is pictured below)

Zero Waste Daniel, legendary NY-based designer who uses garment industry waste HERE and on Instagram  HERE

See Riccardo’s sofa bomber jacket HERE and hear him on the un:CUT podcast HERE

Core Arts, the non-profit organisation supporting people who suffer from mental health issues through learning, HERE

Fabrications, based in Hackney, owned by Barley Massey HERE

Zero Waste Fashion Design book HERE (pictured below) by Holly McQuillan & Timo Rissanen 

It’s the sixth episode of the Check Your Thread podcast, and the second episode featuring parts of the great conversation I had with Amy Dyce. Last week Amy shared heaps about her small business, Craft & Thrift. In today’s episode, the conversation moves from running a sustainability-minded business, to running a sustainability-minded life! We discuss ways to share eco habits, the realities of eco-guilt and how making sustainable choices can get murky. Amy also talks about the ways she uses sewing to save her money and how thrifting has made sewing viable for her. Amy also explains how sewing and knitting became a gateway for her to become more aware of social injustice and other political issues, and reflects on the importance of acknowledging and checking your own privilege. 

Craft & Thrift Etsy shop HERE

My Lou Box Top made using a kit given to me from Craft & Thrift (kits HERE)

Tomato victory!

Katie Green Bean youtube channel HERE

The Vintage Book Worm UK Etsy shop HERE

Me-Made-May explainer HERE 

Find Amy’s Me-Made-May videos HERE 

Read more about my hand-sewn sock experiments HERE

Incredible visible mending and darning by Roberta Cummings HERE

Me and White Supremacy: A Guided Journal HERE

The Sporkful Podcast HERE with many episodes about race (and food) including THIS ONE

Welcome to the fifth episode of CYT, this time featuring a conversation with Amy Dyce, a crafty, thrifty environmentally-minded woman who has a small business called Craft & Thrift. Through her Etsy shop she sells thrifted, vintage and deadstock fabric, along with other related sewing products. Amy was so generous with her time that we ended up chatting and recording for over two hours! Because of that, we will release two episodes that include different parts of our conversation. This first half focuses on her business, including how she pivoted from selling tea cosies to deadstock fabric, her (possibly haunted) storage unit and about the shipping containers full of 90s fabric that pushed her business to the next level. 

The scrap-busting related challenges are:

#so50sustainablesewing created by @judithrosalind and hosted by @sewover50

#recyclingremnants created by @elleandthestitches

Lou Box Top pattern by Sew DIY HERE

Lou Box Top kits from Craft & Thrift HERE

Find my guest Amy on Instagram @craftandthrift, her website is HERE and Etsy shop is HERE

The Sew Your Own Undies kits we collaborated on HERE

Jen Gale from @sustainableish’s powerful post HERE

It’s clear that making the most of the fabric we buy is fundamental to keeping our craft as sustainable as possible. In this solo episode I’m making a case for keeping and using your fabric scraps and leftovers from previous sewing projects, and I’m going to run through my 5 favourite uses for scraps and leftovers. 

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

The Closet Core Pattern free pouf pattern, found HERE, is an excellent way to use up scraps for making the outside and can be stuffed with scraps that are too tiny to be used for anything else.  

@crystaltips fabulous pieced-together sun hat can be seen HERE 

Reversible Bucket Hat pattern by Oliver + S HERE

Sorrento Bucket Hat pattern by Elbe Textiles HERE

Serpentine Hat pattern by Elbe Textiles HERE

Free Sandcastle Bucket Hat pattern by Waves and Wild HERE

Free Hat pattern by Liz Haywood HERE

Free SoZo Undies pattern by me HERE

Wonder Undies pattern by Waves and Wild HERE

Free Speedy Pants pattern by Waves and Wild HERE (used to make the undies pictured below)

Superhero Boxers pattern by Waves and Wild HERE

Comox Trunks pattern by Thread Theory HERE

Sew Your Own Undies kits by Craft and Thrift HERE 

Harem Pants pattern by Wiksten. Wiksten are currently only taking wholesale orders so do an online search to find a stockist of this pattern close to you. 

Free Bummies pattern by Brindille & Twig HERE

Free Ringer Tee pattern by Brindille & Twig HERE

Misusu Patterns can be found HERE

My scrap-busting jersey tees project HERE

My Scout Tee made from scraps of viscose HERE

The tiered Maxi Dress made from slinky jersey leftovers HERE

Elbe Textiles blog post about Patchwork clothing can be found HERE

My ‘Scraps and small piece busting’ Pinterest board is HERE

Some shorts I made with leftover quilting cotton waistband facings and pocket bags HERE (shown above) 

My Thelma Boilersuit with leftover gingham yoke lining HERE

In the third episode of Check Your Thread I’m talking with Jacqueline Shaw, founder of Wax and Wraps which offers African textiles sewing subscription boxes. Jacqueline is an expert on the African fashion and textiles industries and has an MA in Ethical Fashion and Sustainability under her belt as well. In this conversation she shares her excitement about what’s going on right now in African fabric production. She educates me on lots of topics related to her experiences and passions, including her perspective on cultural appropriation and dressmaking with African textiles.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Wax and Wraps can be found HERE. 

Jacqueline’s sourcing agency, African Fashion Guide, is HERE. 

The blue and white striped cotton fabric handwoven in Uganda is pictured below plus can be viewed on Wax and Wraps Instagram HERE, swipe to see the weaving process. 

Jacqueline’s YouTube Channel can be found HERE.

The stretch Ankara fabric that blew my mind is HERE.  

Fashion Africa, Jacqueline’s book, can be bought from Waterstones HERE or Amazon HERE.  

It’s the second episode of the Check Your Thread podcast, and I’ve got my first guest! Wendy Ward has integrated sustainable thinking into her making so deeply that she has literally written a book called ‘How to Sew Sustainably’! In this conversation Wendy shares tips on sewing more sustainably from her book and from her own sewing life. Plus we discuss the commercialisation of craft and how privilege is often associated with sewing today. And finally Wendy talks about how to keep craft accessible when you're short on time, money and space.

Wendy Ward’s website and blog can be found HERE.

More details about Wendy’s new book ‘How to Sew Sustainably’ can be found HERE, including links where to buy it.

An example of Wendy’s approach to pieced together fabric technique from the book:

Scrappy collage piece by Wendy:

THIS is the Instagram post where Wendy discusses the commercialisation of, and privilege associated with, craft. The discussion continues in the comments.

Wendy’s craft-crush Claire Wellesley-Smith’s work and books can be found HERE.

Wendy’s favourite craft tool purveyor, Beyond Measure, can be found HERE.

An example of the darning eggs by Do-Well Design:

Welcome to Check Your Thread, a new podcast about sewing more sustainably! In the first episode, creator Zoe Edwards takes us on a journey through her sewing history, from fashion student, to garment industry employee, to sewing blogger, to dressmaking teacher and more. Learn what inspired her to start Check Your Thread and find out what you can expect from future episodes. Let’s nerd out about garment sewing whilst getting inspired to reduce the impact we have on the planet. 

Zoe has been blogging for 13 years at https://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.com/ and posts on Instagram @sozoblog.

Find out about Me-Made-May here.

Discover Zoe’s book, ‘Mend it, Wear it, Love it’ here

Learn more about the textile recycling charity TRAID here.

Thanks to Silvia Sella (@baba_baba) for the logo design

Thanks to Simon Richmond from Palmskin Productions (@palmskinproductions) for the music

Thanks to Patrick Potter for production support