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Your New Puppy: Dog Training and Dog Behavior Lessons to Help You Turn Your New Puppy into a Well-Behaved Dog

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Your host, Debbie, is a positive trainer with a passion for dogs, their behavior and helping you create a well behaved dog. This is a dog training and behavior podcast that with help you and your new puppy build good healthy habits right from the start. It will also help you understand your dog’s behavior and build a strong, fulfilling, and fun relationship for years to come.
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Your host, Debbie, is a positive trainer with a passion for dogs, their behavior and helping you create a well behaved dog. This is a dog training and behavior podcast that with help you and your new puppy build good healthy habits right from the start. It will also help you understand your dog’s behavior and build a strong, fulfilling, and fun relationship for years to come.
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A question I get ALL the time is about taking your puppy outside before they are fully vaccinated.  This question usually comes up during potty training but my answer has nothing to do with potty training.

In short, your puppy needs to get out and start experiencing the world BEFORE they are fully vaccinated. 

I know this can come into direct conflict with your veterinarian’s advice.  I am not telling you to ignore your vet! As the title of this episode suggest it is all about balancing your puppy’s physical health and their behavioral development.

In this episode I talk about:

  • What socialization is.
  • What science tells us about when socialization is the most important.
  • Why the advice of “keep your puppy inside until fully vaccinated” is still around even though it’s not what is best for your puppy.
  • Suggestions on how to balance the risks of keeping your puppy physically and mentally healthy.

Don’t take my word for it.

In the episode, I talk about the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior and their statement on puppy socialization.  

Their website is https://avsab.org/

You can get the statement I reference right here or by going directly to their website (which I recommend, they have lots of great information on dog behavior).  

More description

A question I get ALL the time is about taking your puppy outside before they are fully vaccinated.  This question usually comes up during potty training but my answer has nothing to do with potty training.

In short, your puppy needs to get out and start experiencing the world BEFORE they are fully vaccinated. 

I know this can come into direct conflict with your veterinarian’s advice.  I am not telling you to ignore your vet! As the title of this episode suggest it is all about balancing your puppy’s physical health and their behavioral development.

In this episode I talk about:

  • What socialization is.
  • What science tells us about when socialization is the most important.
  • Why the advice of “keep your puppy inside until fully vaccinated” is still around even though it’s not what is best for your puppy.
  • Suggestions on how to balance the risks of keeping your puppy physically and mentally healthy.

Don’t take my word for it.

In the episode, I talk about the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior and their statement on puppy socialization.  

Their website is https://avsab.org/

You can get the statement I reference right here or by going directly to their website (which I recommend, they have lots of great information on dog behavior).  

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We are always told “prepare for emergencies” or “make an emergency preparedness plan.”  The problem is the nature of an emergency is they are unpredictable and the situations are usually not something we expect.  All we can do is do our best to prepare so when it happens we at least have a head start.

The type of emergencies I talk about in this episode is any situation where you either, can’t make it back home or you have to leave your home.  Having a dog can make both of these situations even more complicated.

When faced with an emergency you will have a lot of things to think about.  Planning ahead can take the stress out of the situation that you are dealing with.

In this Episode I walk you through making a list of people, places, and things that you may need in these types of emergencies when it comes to taking care of your dog.  Keep this list in a safe place so it’s ready for you when you need to use it.

My hope for you is that this will be the best time you ever wasted.  

Links mentioned in this Episode:

YNP #014: How to Choose the Right Dog Care – Part One

YNP #015: How to Choose the Right Dog Care – Part Two Pet Sitters

Now Released: YOUR Perfect Puppy‘s online course

More description

We are always told “prepare for emergencies” or “make an emergency preparedness plan.”  The problem is the nature of an emergency is they are unpredictable and the situations are usually not something we expect.  All we can do is do our best to prepare so when it happens we at least have a head start.

The type of emergencies I talk about in this episode is any situation where you either, can’t make it back home or you have to leave your home.  Having a dog can make both of these situations even more complicated.

When faced with an emergency you will have a lot of things to think about.  Planning ahead can take the stress out of the situation that you are dealing with.

In this Episode I walk you through making a list of people, places, and things that you may need in these types of emergencies when it comes to taking care of your dog.  Keep this list in a safe place so it’s ready for you when you need to use it.

My hope for you is that this will be the best time you ever wasted.  

Links mentioned in this Episode:

YNP #014: How to Choose the Right Dog Care – Part One

YNP #015: How to Choose the Right Dog Care – Part Two Pet Sitters

Now Released: YOUR Perfect Puppy‘s online course

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A fenced-in backyard is considered a very valuable resource for a dog owner.  It makes owning, potty training and exercising your dog SO much easier.  Or does it?

With anything that makes our lives easier there is always a downside.  

I know this, because I share this struggle with you.

In this episode I talk about a very recent experience I had with my own dog.  Lucy’s behavior started to worsen out of nowhere and I started to get worried and frustrated all at the same time.

Until i realized what was happening.  Lucy was BORED OUT OF HER MIND.  My fenced in backyard allowed me to get lazy and now Lucy and her behavior were showing it.

With an acre of room and her sister to play with she had plenty of exercise but was lacking any other stimulation.

This is why, fenced in yard or not, it is still important to get into the habit of walking your dog right away.

In this episode I share my own struggle and tips on how we can work on it together.

Photo by Aaron Bookout on Unsplash 

I did take my own advice!

Immediately after recording this episode I regretted it ( 😉 not really) because, I had to take my own advice, right?  So even though it looked like this outside:

My actual front yard. 

I tapped into my inner Jersey girl, toughened up, put on my snow boots, grabbed the girls’ leashes, and went out the door.

I’m SO glad I did. Once I was out there and moving, it wasn’t as cold as I thought AND apparently snow changes the smell of everything because the girls acted like they haven’t seen that tree outside a hundred times before.  

Leash walking resources

https://positively.com/dog-behavior/basic-cues/loose-leash-walking/

https://ferndogtraining.com/episode20/

More description

A fenced-in backyard is considered a very valuable resource for a dog owner.  It makes owning, potty training and exercising your dog SO much easier.  Or does it?

With anything that makes our lives easier there is always a downside.  

I know this, because I share this struggle with you.

In this episode I talk about a very recent experience I had with my own dog.  Lucy’s behavior started to worsen out of nowhere and I started to get worried and frustrated all at the same time.

Until i realized what was happening.  Lucy was BORED OUT OF HER MIND.  My fenced in backyard allowed me to get lazy and now Lucy and her behavior were showing it.

With an acre of room and her sister to play with she had plenty of exercise but was lacking any other stimulation.

This is why, fenced in yard or not, it is still important to get into the habit of walking your dog right away.

In this episode I share my own struggle and tips on how we can work on it together.

Photo by Aaron Bookout on Unsplash 

I did take my own advice!

Immediately after recording this episode I regretted it ( 😉 not really) because, I had to take my own advice, right?  So even though it looked like this outside:

My actual front yard. 

I tapped into my inner Jersey girl, toughened up, put on my snow boots, grabbed the girls’ leashes, and went out the door.

I’m SO glad I did. Once I was out there and moving, it wasn’t as cold as I thought AND apparently snow changes the smell of everything because the girls acted like they haven’t seen that tree outside a hundred times before.  

Leash walking resources

https://positively.com/dog-behavior/basic-cues/loose-leash-walking/

https://ferndogtraining.com/episode20/

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We know that finding the right dog food for our dog is important.  It can also be overwhelming.  Most of us want to be able to walk into a pet store, pick up a bag and make the right decision.  Unfortunately, it’s not that simple.

There is a lot of different information out there about which dog food.

Deciphering what is true and what is based on common beliefs that may or may not be outdated is next to impossible.

To help you out, this in this episode I go over 5 myths associated with commercial dog food.  Most of these myths came from a small amount of truth BUT through a game of telephone, the misconceptions grew.  

The worst of it, are some of the dog food companies take advantage of these myths to continue to sell us low-quality food for our pets.

The 5 Dog Food Myths (and what the truth is)

#1: Find a dog food your dog likes and stick with it. (not always)

#2: Dog food has a long shelf life (sorta)

#3: Grain-free means low carb (nope)

#4: Higher price means higher quality (not even close)

#5: The first ingredient should be meat (Yes! But that’s not the whole story)

Decoding Pet Food Labels Free 5-day course delivered to your inbox.

As mentioned in this episode I have a FREE dog food label mini-course! It’s a 5-day video series that goes through all the different parts of the label, from the description on the front to the ingredient list on the back.  Ready to learn more about the food you are feeding your pet? Sign up below to receive this FREE series.  You can also learn more about what’s inside the lessons here

[tcb-script src=”https://playtimepaws.mykajabi.com/forms/159494/embed.js”][/tcb-script]

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We know that finding the right dog food for our dog is important.  It can also be overwhelming.  Most of us want to be able to walk into a pet store, pick up a bag and make the right decision.  Unfortunately, it’s not that simple.

There is a lot of different information out there about which dog food.

Deciphering what is true and what is based on common beliefs that may or may not be outdated is next to impossible.

To help you out, this in this episode I go over 5 myths associated with commercial dog food.  Most of these myths came from a small amount of truth BUT through a game of telephone, the misconceptions grew.  

The worst of it, are some of the dog food companies take advantage of these myths to continue to sell us low-quality food for our pets.

The 5 Dog Food Myths (and what the truth is)

#1: Find a dog food your dog likes and stick with it. (not always)

#2: Dog food has a long shelf life (sorta)

#3: Grain-free means low carb (nope)

#4: Higher price means higher quality (not even close)

#5: The first ingredient should be meat (Yes! But that’s not the whole story)

Decoding Pet Food Labels Free 5-day course delivered to your inbox.

As mentioned in this episode I have a FREE dog food label mini-course! It’s a 5-day video series that goes through all the different parts of the label, from the description on the front to the ingredient list on the back.  Ready to learn more about the food you are feeding your pet? Sign up below to receive this FREE series.  You can also learn more about what’s inside the lessons here

[tcb-script src=”https://playtimepaws.mykajabi.com/forms/159494/embed.js”][/tcb-script]

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“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” – Benjamin Franklin

The best way to stop your dog from jumping up on people is not to allow him from to do it from day one.

The best way to stop your dog from sleeping on the bed with you is to teach him to sleep in his own bed from day one.

I know, it sounds so simple. When your dog is a puppy it’s easy to let him jump because at that point it’s cute, not annoying. And right now he doesn’t take up that much room in the bed.

It is so easy to let certain behaviors happen when they are small and cute but we end up having to fix bad habits later

In this Episode, I talk about using preventive training and house rules to think ahead and make training easier.

Biggest takeaway

Ask yourself and your family the following questions and start enforcing the house rules from day one.

Will this behavior be appropriate in the future?
Will this behavior be appropriate when our puppy is full grown?
Will this behavior be appropriate with small children, grandma, guests, etc?

It can be tough to enforce these rules when all you want to do is play and snuggle and give your puppy whatever they want, but I promise you, your family AND your puppy will thank you for it.

Resources Mentioned in the Episode

Episode #008: When your Dog Jumps: How to Prevent and Correct Jumping up on People

Photo by Tim Trad on Unsplash

More description


“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” – Benjamin Franklin

The best way to stop your dog from jumping up on people is not to allow him from to do it from day one.

The best way to stop your dog from sleeping on the bed with you is to teach him to sleep in his own bed from day one.

I know, it sounds so simple. When your dog is a puppy it’s easy to let him jump because at that point it’s cute, not annoying. And right now he doesn’t take up that much room in the bed.

It is so easy to let certain behaviors happen when they are small and cute but we end up having to fix bad habits later

In this Episode, I talk about using preventive training and house rules to think ahead and make training easier.

Biggest takeaway

Ask yourself and your family the following questions and start enforcing the house rules from day one.

Will this behavior be appropriate in the future?
Will this behavior be appropriate when our puppy is full grown?
Will this behavior be appropriate with small children, grandma, guests, etc?

It can be tough to enforce these rules when all you want to do is play and snuggle and give your puppy whatever they want, but I promise you, your family AND your puppy will thank you for it.

Resources Mentioned in the Episode

Episode #008: When your Dog Jumps: How to Prevent and Correct Jumping up on People

Photo by Tim Trad on Unsplash

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Welcome to Part Two of the two-part series on helping you find the right dog care for you.  In part one (Episode #14) I talked all about facilities.  In this episode I talk about Pet Sitters.

Who will take care of your dog when you can’t is a very common concern for most dog owners.  With good reason.  There is a high level of trust that has to happen for you to feel comfortable to leave your dog in someone else’s hands.  

Good news is there are a lot of options out there nowadays.  The bad news is there is a lot of options out there nowadays.

There are a few things to consider when deciding which option is right for you and your dog.  Remember that your comfort is just as important as your dog’s comfort.  If you are nervous about leaving your dog then your dog will be nervous about being left.  

Even if you are clear about which service you want, now you have to find the place or person you trust.  The only way to really do that is to talk to them and ask lots of questions.  Remember this is your dog you will be leaving with them, don’t be shy about getting all the information you can.

In this episode

I talk about your different options when considering a pet sitter.   Most pet sitters will do home visits.  Home visits are where the sitter comes and takes care of your dog while he stays in his home environment.  Some pet sitters will even take your dog into their home and stay while you are away.

In this episode I talk about both options plus how to find the pet sitter that is right for you and your dog including:

  1. Decide on what your priorities are
  2. Do your research
  3. Call and ask questions
  4. Schedule a meet and greet
  5. Do a test run.

Don’t forget to check out part one (episode 14) where I talk all about facilities.

Dog Care Questionnaire

 

To help you through this process I have provide you with a questionnaire you can use as a starting point to ask lots of questions and figure out which pet sitter is going to be the best for you and your dog.

The questions are split into two categories: Pet sitters that come to your home and pet sitters that will take your dog into their home.

The questions are designed to give you a head start.  They center around getting a clear picture of what is happening inside a facility once you drop your dog off.  Use these questions exactly or modify and add questions depending on your priorities and needs.

 

Episode #015 Free Tool:  Dog Care Questionnaire for Pet Sitters

Get Your Free Tool

 

Additional Resources mentioned in this Episode

 

Episode 14: YNP #014: How to Choose the Right Dog Care – Part One

 

Rover.com

Pet Sitters International

National Association of Professional Pet Sitters

 

More description

Welcome to Part Two of the two-part series on helping you find the right dog care for you.  In part one (Episode #14) I talked all about facilities.  In this episode I talk about Pet Sitters.

Who will take care of your dog when you can’t is a very common concern for most dog owners.  With good reason.  There is a high level of trust that has to happen for you to feel comfortable to leave your dog in someone else’s hands.  

Good news is there are a lot of options out there nowadays.  The bad news is there is a lot of options out there nowadays.

There are a few things to consider when deciding which option is right for you and your dog.  Remember that your comfort is just as important as your dog’s comfort.  If you are nervous about leaving your dog then your dog will be nervous about being left.  

Even if you are clear about which service you want, now you have to find the place or person you trust.  The only way to really do that is to talk to them and ask lots of questions.  Remember this is your dog you will be leaving with them, don’t be shy about getting all the information you can.

In this episode

I talk about your different options when considering a pet sitter.   Most pet sitters will do home visits.  Home visits are where the sitter comes and takes care of your dog while he stays in his home environment.  Some pet sitters will even take your dog into their home and stay while you are away.

In this episode I talk about both options plus how to find the pet sitter that is right for you and your dog including:

  1. Decide on what your priorities are
  2. Do your research
  3. Call and ask questions
  4. Schedule a meet and greet
  5. Do a test run.

Don’t forget to check out part one (episode 14) where I talk all about facilities.

Dog Care Questionnaire

 

To help you through this process I have provide you with a questionnaire you can use as a starting point to ask lots of questions and figure out which pet sitter is going to be the best for you and your dog.

The questions are split into two categories: Pet sitters that come to your home and pet sitters that will take your dog into their home.

The questions are designed to give you a head start.  They center around getting a clear picture of what is happening inside a facility once you drop your dog off.  Use these questions exactly or modify and add questions depending on your priorities and needs.

 

Episode #015 Free Tool:  Dog Care Questionnaire for Pet Sitters

Get Your Free Tool

 

Additional Resources mentioned in this Episode

 

Episode 14: YNP #014: How to Choose the Right Dog Care – Part One

 

Rover.com

Pet Sitters International

National Association of Professional Pet Sitters

 

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Do a test run.

 

Don’t forget to check out part two (episode 15) where I talk all about pet sitters.

Dog Care Questionnaire

To help you through this process I have provide you with a questionnaire you can use as a starting point to ask lots of questions and figure out which facility is going to be the best for you and your dog.

The questions are designed to give you a head start.  They center around getting a clear picture of what is happening inside a facility once you drop your dog off.  Use these questions exactly or modify and add questions depending on your priorities and needs.

Episode #014 Free Tool:  Dog Care Questionnaire for Facilities

Get Your Free Tool

More description

Do a test run.

 

Don’t forget to check out part two (episode 15) where I talk all about pet sitters.

Dog Care Questionnaire

To help you through this process I have provide you with a questionnaire you can use as a starting point to ask lots of questions and figure out which facility is going to be the best for you and your dog.

The questions are designed to give you a head start.  They center around getting a clear picture of what is happening inside a facility once you drop your dog off.  Use these questions exactly or modify and add questions depending on your priorities and needs.

Episode #014 Free Tool:  Dog Care Questionnaire for Facilities

Get Your Free Tool

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Published 2017-09-28

YNP #013: Dog Park vs. Dog Daycare

13 min
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Both Dog Parks and Dog Daycares are a place for your dog to get exhausted while playing with their friends.  Beyond that, you and your dog’s experience are quite different.

Where dog parks are free, daycares cost money.  You get to stay and interact and play with the other dogs and people at a dog park but a daycare allows you to take a break while your dog is having fun.

The biggest difference is the socialization and safety of your dog.  Like anything that is free, a dog park involves more caution and risk.  With dog parks, any owner can show up.  Daycares carefully monitor the dog’s health and behavior that participate in the play.

Biggest Takeaway

If you take anything away from this episode it’s this:  If your goal is to socialize your dog then a daycare is a place to go and you should avoid the dog park.  If you have a dog that is already well socialized, then a daycare still works.  A dog park can too, as long as you use common sense and caution.

In this episode, I go through the pros and cons of each so you can decide what is best for you and your dog.

More description

 

Both Dog Parks and Dog Daycares are a place for your dog to get exhausted while playing with their friends.  Beyond that, you and your dog’s experience are quite different.

Where dog parks are free, daycares cost money.  You get to stay and interact and play with the other dogs and people at a dog park but a daycare allows you to take a break while your dog is having fun.

The biggest difference is the socialization and safety of your dog.  Like anything that is free, a dog park involves more caution and risk.  With dog parks, any owner can show up.  Daycares carefully monitor the dog’s health and behavior that participate in the play.

Biggest Takeaway

If you take anything away from this episode it’s this:  If your goal is to socialize your dog then a daycare is a place to go and you should avoid the dog park.  If you have a dog that is already well socialized, then a daycare still works.  A dog park can too, as long as you use common sense and caution.

In this episode, I go through the pros and cons of each so you can decide what is best for you and your dog.

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You don’t have to be a dog person to know about basic obedience. It’s usually the first thing you think of when someone says “training a dog”.

It is popular for very good reasons. I could list a hundred reasons for you and your dog to go through some kind of obedience training.

In this episode, I name a few but I mostly talk about what, in my opinion, is the most important part of your basic obedience education.

YOU are the most important part of your dog’s obedience training.

Learning the commands is only half the story. Developing the relationship and bond is the other. You can’t have one without the other.

If you have ever had a dog or have known a dog that only listens to one person in the family or if you have ever known a dog that knew all his commands but still didn’t behave properly then you know what I’m talking about

I feel that if you approach your training as a relationship building exercise then you are going to get the most out of it.

Obedience training isn’t a cure-all but it can create the foundation of your relationship and all training to come.

Have you taken an obedience class? Tell us your experience. What was the best thing you got out of it? What do you wish was different? Leave a comment below and let us know.

More description

You don’t have to be a dog person to know about basic obedience. It’s usually the first thing you think of when someone says “training a dog”.

It is popular for very good reasons. I could list a hundred reasons for you and your dog to go through some kind of obedience training.

In this episode, I name a few but I mostly talk about what, in my opinion, is the most important part of your basic obedience education.

YOU are the most important part of your dog’s obedience training.

Learning the commands is only half the story. Developing the relationship and bond is the other. You can’t have one without the other.

If you have ever had a dog or have known a dog that only listens to one person in the family or if you have ever known a dog that knew all his commands but still didn’t behave properly then you know what I’m talking about

I feel that if you approach your training as a relationship building exercise then you are going to get the most out of it.

Obedience training isn’t a cure-all but it can create the foundation of your relationship and all training to come.

Have you taken an obedience class? Tell us your experience. What was the best thing you got out of it? What do you wish was different? Leave a comment below and let us know.

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I find so many dog owners go right for their retractable leash.  And I get it! I did the same thing when I got my first dog. Retractable leashes make so much sense in theory; make it short when I want to, give them freedom when I want to. It’s like 10 leashes in one!” Except they are anything but convenient for the safety and training for your dog.

If you don’t already have a retractable leash you have most likely thought about buying one. You might even think that it’s the type of leash you’re “supposed” to get.  EVERYONE has one.  I’m here to tell you to resist the peer pressure!!

This episode is short and sweet. I go through many different reasons why you should grab your regular ol’ leash and leave the retractable leash at home next time you head out the door with your dog.

Once you make the switch, I promise you will understand.

The main reasons you should leave your retractable leash at home:
  • Control
  • Safety
  • Bonding
  • Resource control

Enjoy!!

More description

I find so many dog owners go right for their retractable leash.  And I get it! I did the same thing when I got my first dog. Retractable leashes make so much sense in theory; make it short when I want to, give them freedom when I want to. It’s like 10 leashes in one!” Except they are anything but convenient for the safety and training for your dog.

If you don’t already have a retractable leash you have most likely thought about buying one. You might even think that it’s the type of leash you’re “supposed” to get.  EVERYONE has one.  I’m here to tell you to resist the peer pressure!!

This episode is short and sweet. I go through many different reasons why you should grab your regular ol’ leash and leave the retractable leash at home next time you head out the door with your dog.

Once you make the switch, I promise you will understand.

The main reasons you should leave your retractable leash at home:
  • Control
  • Safety
  • Bonding
  • Resource control

Enjoy!!

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Potty training is a rite of passage for all puppy owners.  It’s not the pretty part of owning a new puppy but it’s the one training none of us can ignore.

Sometimes we forget that our dogs don’t come pre-programmed to go to the bathroom outside. This is a habit we have to teach them.

The concept of potty training and what you need to do isn’t hard.  The time, the effort, and the emotional roller coaster, that’s what’s hard. And even if you do EVERYTHING right there’s still going to be accidents and speed bumps along the way.  

There are going to be times where you are going to wonder if you’re ever going to get your life back.  When are you going to be able to sit on your couch and snuggle with your puppy without constantly worrying if he has to go outside?

I promise you, that time will come. First, we have to get through the potty training process. There’s no skipping it.  Yeah just have to do it.

Though we can’t avoid it there are some ways to make it quicker and easier.  Here I have broken down my Complete Process to Potty Training Your Puppy.  By the end you will know exactly what to do when. 

You can read on or…

You can press play below to listen to Episode 10 of Your New Puppy’s Podcast here:

(A podcast is a radio show or an audio blog where you can listen to me talk instead of reading about it) 

I’ve also put together a 2 page cheat sheet for you with all the information and tips summarized. You can print it out and have it handy throughout the process.  It also includes a potty training schedule to help you keep track of everything.  The Potty Training Cheat Sheet and Schedule is free and yours to download and keep.

Complete Guide to Potty Training Your Puppy

I’ve created a guide for you that summarize the steps and tips I talk about in the episode. I’ve also created a one-page Puppy Tracker for you to use to keep track of your dog’s schedule, any accidents that happen and your wins!

Keeping track of these things will be extremely helpful if coordinating with multiple people in the household. It is also a great way to find patterns if things aren’t going smoothly.

In the simplest terms, we are teaching our dog, the proper place to go to the bathroom is outside.  Potty training is such a common thing for us; we forget that it’s not natural for our dogs.

What IS natural for our dogs is to not go in their sleeping area. That’s why using a crate during potty training makes the whole process faster and more efficient. When used correctly, the crate will give him a safe and secure place when we can’t supervise which will greatly reduce accidents.

I talk more about crate training in Your New Puppy’s Podcast Episode 05.

I also do NOT use indoor potty pads at all.  You don’t want your puppy to have any idea that he might be allowed to go to the bathroom inside.

I talk about why I don’t use potty pads in Your New Puppy’s Podcast Episode 09.

How long it takes will depend on your dog, on you, and your family. Some dogs just pick it up right away, some struggle.  It will depend on how closely you will be able to stick to the process.  It takes time and energy and sometimes we are going to drop the ball.  What I can promise, is if you stick to this process you will see progress within a week.  

Let’s go over exactly what to do, when.

When should you take your dog out?

We want to make sure we’re getting him out before the accidents happen. We’re not waiting for him to start circling the floor or to squat to pick him up and bring him out. We want to get him out before there’s even the potential of an accident. 

The rule of thumb is your puppy can physically hold it one hour for every month they are old.  If they are a bigger breed you can add an hour.  Overnight you add an additional 2-3 hours (I talk more about overnight below).  This is the MAX we are not waiting until they definitely have to go to take them out.

The mantra I teach my YOUR Perfect Puppy students is “when in doubt, take your puppy out.”  Which means even if there is a whisper of a thought that your puppy needs to go out you‘re taking your puppy outside.

Obvious times are first thing in the morning, right before bed, or if it’s simply been a few hours. 

PRO TIP: If you are taking him out of his crate, be completely ready before you let him out.  Your jacket’s on, shoes are on, leash and bag in hand. All you’re doing is clipping the leash on and walking up the door.  If you let him out of his crate and you’re like “oh my shoes are over by the front door” or “oh my jacket’s over in the closet.”  Too late, there’s a puddle on the floor.

They will also need to go within 30 minutes of eating and 10 minutes of drinking. 

You want to control the water as well as the food. Most of us are programmed to leave fresh water down all the time.  I’m telling you not to do this. I want you to be able to keep track of every single sip of water your dog drinks. 

You can offer you dog fresh water as often as you want, we are not keeping the water from him we are just controlling it.  This is because as soon as they drink we know, within 10 minutes we have to take him out.  It’s very easy to miss when he takes a drink and then there’s an accident.  This is something that surprises a lot of my puppy clients. Remember this is just during potty training.

Pro Tip:  Change up the place you take him to go potty. For example, if you only bring your puppy into the backyard, he may start to think that your backyard is the only place he is supposed to go (instead of “outside” in general).  Then if you take him anywhere (to a friend’s house, board him, etc.) he will try to hold it until he gets to his “spot” and then an accident happens.

If you want him to only go in one spot in your yard, then always bring him to the one spot when you are in your yard.  But you also need to take him out of your yard completely.  You only have to do this once or twice a week, it doesn’t take much. 

The best time to do this is first thing in the morning when you know he has to go.  Simple walk in a different direction on a walk or take him to the front yard instead of the back. 

(Concerned about his vaccines?  I talk about this in Your New Puppy’s Podcast Episode 21)

What do you do when once you are outside?

You want to minimize the distractions, which is no easy feat.  He’s probably gonna want to play with every leave, stick, or blade of grass he finds. Ideally it’s business first. Once he goes, then he can play. In fact, playing can be his reward.

A lot of people ask me about treats.  The tricky thing with treats is you have to get the timing just right. You have to get that treat in their mouth as they’re going to the bathroom.  If we give them the reward when we come back in, they will see the reward for coming back inside, not going to the bathroom outside.

(Your New Puppy’s Podcast Episode 26 is all about how timing is everything when you reward your puppy)

I’ve always had great success with just verbal praise during potty training.  I praise the heck out of them while they are going to the bathroom. Do not underestimate the power of your attention.  It’s like gold to our puppies.

What do you do when you come back in?

Well, that depends. Did he go to the bathroom?

If the answer is ‘yes’ then fantastic!  Now he gets some supervised free time.  He gets some freedom around the house because he is empty and we can relax a little bit. Note I said supervise free time. He’s still a puppy and potty accidents are far from the only trouble he can get into. Plus, you never know if there’s still a little bit left in the tank.

If the answer is ‘no’, then he goes back into his crate. I know not fun, but just because he didn’t go, doesn’t mean he’s empty.  He could have gotten distracted outside or he simple hasn’t made the connection to why you’re out there.

Put him back in the crate, wait 10-15 minutes and then take him back outside. Repeat this until he does go potty. Remember he’s a puppy, so what’s the most it’s going to last, an hour? Once he goes outside we reward the heck out of him and then it’s supervised free time!

Using the crate
  • We’ve taken him outside.
  • He finally went to the bathroom
  • He’s gotten some free time. 

So now what do we do the rest of the day?

If you can supervise your puppy then whatever you want (I mean directly supervise, not, he’s in the room with me, not, I can hear him over there, I mean eyes on dog).  Ideally you are playing, training, and engaging with your puppy to get rid of all that puppy energy.  

If you can’t supervise then we use the crate.  This prevents accidents and keeps them safe (just to name a few of the benefits of crate training). Give them a toy or bone to occupy them and let them chill.

Overnight

There is no way around it, you’re going to lose some sleep. Your puppy simply can’t hold it that long yet.  I mentioned above that your puppy will be able to hold it a little longer overnight, so hopefully this won’t last as long as the whole process.

To be clear, just because your puppy can hold it overnight, does not mean he can hold it for the same amount of time during the day. Their bodies function differently, they aren’t moving around.  and it’s been a while since they ate or drank.

There are a couple of ways to get through the overnight potty breaks.  If you have a couple adults in your household and one goes to bed late and then somebody else wakes up early, then you’re golden.

But if you’re the only adult, or if everybody’s on the same sleep schedule, then we’re going to have to make some temporary adjustments.You have a choice.  

  1. Go to bed a later and get up earlier. So during the potty training, maybe we’re getting a little less sleep.  
  2. If you would rather keep your bedtime then set an alarm knowing that an overnight potty break is going to happen.

If you have a super young puppy (8-12 weeks) you may have to set your alarm for an overnight break no matter what because they won’t be able to go much more than 4-5 hours.

The reason for setting an alarm is so you are up and taking your puppy out before they have the chance to whine.  Once they realize if they whine in the middle of the night they get let out they may start to whine even if they don’t have to go outside.

PRO TIP: Have everything ready the night before and set it right next to their crate.  This way when the overnight potty break happens you will create as little stimulation as possible.  Minimal lights, noise, and activity.  It’s all business and then back to bed.  The last thing we want to do is make overnight breaks fun!

PRO TIP: No food or water 2 hours before bedtime. 

Accidents

Accidents are going to happen.  You can do everything right and they will happen. How you handle an accident is key to the potty training experience. If you do it correctly, it can actually speed up the process!

You will find yourself in one of two scenarios:  you find the accident, or you see it happen. What you do depends on which of the two scenarios you find yourself in.  Let’s talk about each one.

You find the accident.  

If you find the puddle or pile the only thing you can do is clean it up and do better next time (this is where the puppy schedule will help us. I’ll talk about that in a second).

To clean it up we use a special enzyme cleaner because we want to remove the scent. Not just the smell that we smell but the smell the dog smells because dogs will naturally go in the same area that smells like a puppy toilet.

We can’t punish our dog for something that we didn’t see happen. This is all on us. Obviously if we didn’t see it, we weren’t supervising.  The ONLY way to correct a behavior, including an accident, is to see it happen.  So let’s talk about that. 

You catch him in the act.

If you see the sniff, the circling, or even the squat what do you do?

You startle him (maybe with a “eh, eh, eh” or clap) so he looks over to you, scoop him up and bring them outside.  I don’t care if you don’t have your shoes on, I don’t care if you don’t have your jacket on, I don’t care if you get pee on you. Potty training is a messy business.  I wouldn’t be telling you to do this if it wasn’t important.

This is key. This is the place that your dog is gonna make the connection “we don’t do this here, we do this outside.”

I have a lot of people hesitate to do this because they don’t want to scoop their dog up while they’re peeing. Get over that and just do it. 

No matter which scenario we find ourselves in, the most important thing we do is figure out why it happened.  When you are able to see why the accidents are happening you can learn from them and make adjustments. 

This is where keeping a journal or schedule is important. You will start to see patterns.  Maybe accidents happen on Saturdays when your schedule is different.  Or maybe they are happening right when the kids get home from school.  Or you realize you aren’t supervising your puppy as closely as you should. 

This is why, included with the free cheat sheet below I have given you a one page schedule with a section to keep track of these accidents so we can learn from them.

Free Cheat Sheet

The free Potty Training Cheat Sheet below summarizes all of the information and tips I went over above.  There is also a puppy schedule for you to keep track of food, potty breaks, accidents and wins!

Keeping a journal or calendar will help you see patterns and understand when your puppy eats, goes potty, and when accidents happen.  This is essential when you have multiple people in the house hold and need to coordinate.  You also want to keep track when you have a big win (no accidents today! he went to the back door!).  Tracking your even little wins will remind you of how far you’ve come when you have a set back or hit a bump.

Complete Guide to Potty Training Your Puppy

I’ve created a guide for you that summarize the steps and tips I talk about in the episode. I’ve also created a one-page Puppy  Tracker for you to use to keep track of your dog’s schedule, any accidents that happen and your successes.

Keeping track of these things will be extremely helpful if coordinating with multiple people in the household. It is also a great way to find patterns if things aren’t going smoothly.

Wrap up

There will be a time that you’ll be sitting on the couch at night watching TV with your dog at your feet and you’re going to be like, huh, remember that time, the only thing we thought about was does the dog have to go outside?

It will happen, I promise you.  Potty training is a rite of passage. Every single puppy owner goes through it.  It’s one of those things that if you ever get another puppy, you’re going to forget how hard it was until its happening again.

Hugs and Belly Rubs!

More description

Potty training is a rite of passage for all puppy owners.  It’s not the pretty part of owning a new puppy but it’s the one training none of us can ignore.

Sometimes we forget that our dogs don’t come pre-programmed to go to the bathroom outside. This is a habit we have to teach them.

The concept of potty training and what you need to do isn’t hard.  The time, the effort, and the emotional roller coaster, that’s what’s hard. And even if you do EVERYTHING right there’s still going to be accidents and speed bumps along the way.  

There are going to be times where you are going to wonder if you’re ever going to get your life back.  When are you going to be able to sit on your couch and snuggle with your puppy without constantly worrying if he has to go outside?

I promise you, that time will come. First, we have to get through the potty training process. There’s no skipping it.  Yeah just have to do it.

Though we can’t avoid it there are some ways to make it quicker and easier.  Here I have broken down my Complete Process to Potty Training Your Puppy.  By the end you will know exactly what to do when. 

You can read on or…

You can press play below to listen to Episode 10 of Your New Puppy’s Podcast here:

(A podcast is a radio show or an audio blog where you can listen to me talk instead of reading about it) 

I’ve also put together a 2 page cheat sheet for you with all the information and tips summarized. You can print it out and have it handy throughout the process.  It also includes a potty training schedule to help you keep track of everything.  The Potty Training Cheat Sheet and Schedule is free and yours to download and keep.

Complete Guide to Potty Training Your Puppy

I’ve created a guide for you that summarize the steps and tips I talk about in the episode. I’ve also created a one-page Puppy Tracker for you to use to keep track of your dog’s schedule, any accidents that happen and your wins!

Keeping track of these things will be extremely helpful if coordinating with multiple people in the household. It is also a great way to find patterns if things aren’t going smoothly.

In the simplest terms, we are teaching our dog, the proper place to go to the bathroom is outside.  Potty training is such a common thing for us; we forget that it’s not natural for our dogs.

What IS natural for our dogs is to not go in their sleeping area. That’s why using a crate during potty training makes the whole process faster and more efficient. When used correctly, the crate will give him a safe and secure place when we can’t supervise which will greatly reduce accidents.

I talk more about crate training in Your New Puppy’s Podcast Episode 05.

I also do NOT use indoor potty pads at all.  You don’t want your puppy to have any idea that he might be allowed to go to the bathroom inside.

I talk about why I don’t use potty pads in Your New Puppy’s Podcast Episode 09.

How long it takes will depend on your dog, on you, and your family. Some dogs just pick it up right away, some struggle.  It will depend on how closely you will be able to stick to the process.  It takes time and energy and sometimes we are going to drop the ball.  What I can promise, is if you stick to this process you will see progress within a week.  

Let’s go over exactly what to do, when.

When should you take your dog out?

We want to make sure we’re getting him out before the accidents happen. We’re not waiting for him to start circling the floor or to squat to pick him up and bring him out. We want to get him out before there’s even the potential of an accident. 

The rule of thumb is your puppy can physically hold it one hour for every month they are old.  If they are a bigger breed you can add an hour.  Overnight you add an additional 2-3 hours (I talk more about overnight below).  This is the MAX we are not waiting until they definitely have to go to take them out.

The mantra I teach my YOUR Perfect Puppy students is “when in doubt, take your puppy out.”  Which means even if there is a whisper of a thought that your puppy needs to go out you‘re taking your puppy outside.

Obvious times are first thing in the morning, right before bed, or if it’s simply been a few hours. 

PRO TIP: If you are taking him out of his crate, be completely ready before you let him out.  Your jacket’s on, shoes are on, leash and bag in hand. All you’re doing is clipping the leash on and walking up the door.  If you let him out of his crate and you’re like “oh my shoes are over by the front door” or “oh my jacket’s over in the closet.”  Too late, there’s a puddle on the floor.

They will also need to go within 30 minutes of eating and 10 minutes of drinking. 

You want to control the water as well as the food. Most of us are programmed to leave fresh water down all the time.  I’m telling you not to do this. I want you to be able to keep track of every single sip of water your dog drinks. 

You can offer you dog fresh water as often as you want, we are not keeping the water from him we are just controlling it.  This is because as soon as they drink we know, within 10 minutes we have to take him out.  It’s very easy to miss when he takes a drink and then there’s an accident.  This is something that surprises a lot of my puppy clients. Remember this is just during potty training.

Pro Tip:  Change up the place you take him to go potty. For example, if you only bring your puppy into the backyard, he may start to think that your backyard is the only place he is supposed to go (instead of “outside” in general).  Then if you take him anywhere (to a friend’s house, board him, etc.) he will try to hold it until he gets to his “spot” and then an accident happens.

If you want him to only go in one spot in your yard, then always bring him to the one spot when you are in your yard.  But you also need to take him out of your yard completely.  You only have to do this once or twice a week, it doesn’t take much. 

The best time to do this is first thing in the morning when you know he has to go.  Simple walk in a different direction on a walk or take him to the front yard instead of the back. 

(Concerned about his vaccines?  I talk about this in Your New Puppy’s Podcast Episode 21)

What do you do when once you are outside?

You want to minimize the distractions, which is no easy feat.  He’s probably gonna want to play with every leave, stick, or blade of grass he finds. Ideally it’s business first. Once he goes, then he can play. In fact, playing can be his reward.

A lot of people ask me about treats.  The tricky thing with treats is you have to get the timing just right. You have to get that treat in their mouth as they’re going to the bathroom.  If we give them the reward when we come back in, they will see the reward for coming back inside, not going to the bathroom outside.

(Your New Puppy’s Podcast Episode 26 is all about how timing is everything when you reward your puppy)

I’ve always had great success with just verbal praise during potty training.  I praise the heck out of them while they are going to the bathroom. Do not underestimate the power of your attention.  It’s like gold to our puppies.

What do you do when you come back in?

Well, that depends. Did he go to the bathroom?

If the answer is ‘yes’ then fantastic!  Now he gets some supervised free time.  He gets some freedom around the house because he is empty and we can relax a little bit. Note I said supervise free time. He’s still a puppy and potty accidents are far from the only trouble he can get into. Plus, you never know if there’s still a little bit left in the tank.

If the answer is ‘no’, then he goes back into his crate. I know not fun, but just because he didn’t go, doesn’t mean he’s empty.  He could have gotten distracted outside or he simple hasn’t made the connection to why you’re out there.

Put him back in the crate, wait 10-15 minutes and then take him back outside. Repeat this until he does go potty. Remember he’s a puppy, so what’s the most it’s going to last, an hour? Once he goes outside we reward the heck out of him and then it’s supervised free time!

Using the crate
  • We’ve taken him outside.
  • He finally went to the bathroom
  • He’s gotten some free time. 

So now what do we do the rest of the day?

If you can supervise your puppy then whatever you want (I mean directly supervise, not, he’s in the room with me, not, I can hear him over there, I mean eyes on dog).  Ideally you are playing, training, and engaging with your puppy to get rid of all that puppy energy.  

If you can’t supervise then we use the crate.  This prevents accidents and keeps them safe (just to name a few of the benefits of crate training). Give them a toy or bone to occupy them and let them chill.

Overnight

There is no way around it, you’re going to lose some sleep. Your puppy simply can’t hold it that long yet.  I mentioned above that your puppy will be able to hold it a little longer overnight, so hopefully this won’t last as long as the whole process.

To be clear, just because your puppy can hold it overnight, does not mean he can hold it for the same amount of time during the day. Their bodies function differently, they aren’t moving around.  and it’s been a while since they ate or drank.

There are a couple of ways to get through the overnight potty breaks.  If you have a couple adults in your household and one goes to bed late and then somebody else wakes up early, then you’re golden.

But if you’re the only adult, or if everybody’s on the same sleep schedule, then we’re going to have to make some temporary adjustments.You have a choice.  

  1. Go to bed a later and get up earlier. So during the potty training, maybe we’re getting a little less sleep.  
  2. If you would rather keep your bedtime then set an alarm knowing that an overnight potty break is going to happen.

If you have a super young puppy (8-12 weeks) you may have to set your alarm for an overnight break no matter what because they won’t be able to go much more than 4-5 hours.

The reason for setting an alarm is so you are up and taking your puppy out before they have the chance to whine.  Once they realize if they whine in the middle of the night they get let out they may start to whine even if they don’t have to go outside.

PRO TIP: Have everything ready the night before and set it right next to their crate.  This way when the overnight potty break happens you will create as little stimulation as possible.  Minimal lights, noise, and activity.  It’s all business and then back to bed.  The last thing we want to do is make overnight breaks fun!

PRO TIP: No food or water 2 hours before bedtime. 

Accidents

Accidents are going to happen.  You can do everything right and they will happen. How you handle an accident is key to the potty training experience. If you do it correctly, it can actually speed up the process!

You will find yourself in one of two scenarios:  you find the accident, or you see it happen. What you do depends on which of the two scenarios you find yourself in.  Let’s talk about each one.

You find the accident.  

If you find the puddle or pile the only thing you can do is clean it up and do better next time (this is where the puppy schedule will help us. I’ll talk about that in a second).

To clean it up we use a special enzyme cleaner because we want to remove the scent. Not just the smell that we smell but the smell the dog smells because dogs will naturally go in the same area that smells like a puppy toilet.

We can’t punish our dog for something that we didn’t see happen. This is all on us. Obviously if we didn’t see it, we weren’t supervising.  The ONLY way to correct a behavior, including an accident, is to see it happen.  So let’s talk about that. 

You catch him in the act.

If you see the sniff, the circling, or even the squat what do you do?

You startle him (maybe with a “eh, eh, eh” or clap) so he looks over to you, scoop him up and bring them outside.  I don’t care if you don’t have your shoes on, I don’t care if you don’t have your jacket on, I don’t care if you get pee on you. Potty training is a messy business.  I wouldn’t be telling you to do this if it wasn’t important.

This is key. This is the place that your dog is gonna make the connection “we don’t do this here, we do this outside.”

I have a lot of people hesitate to do this because they don’t want to scoop their dog up while they’re peeing. Get over that and just do it. 

No matter which scenario we find ourselves in, the most important thing we do is figure out why it happened.  When you are able to see why the accidents are happening you can learn from them and make adjustments. 

This is where keeping a journal or schedule is important. You will start to see patterns.  Maybe accidents happen on Saturdays when your schedule is different.  Or maybe they are happening right when the kids get home from school.  Or you realize you aren’t supervising your puppy as closely as you should. 

This is why, included with the free cheat sheet below I have given you a one page schedule with a section to keep track of these accidents so we can learn from them.

Free Cheat Sheet

The free Potty Training Cheat Sheet below summarizes all of the information and tips I went over above.  There is also a puppy schedule for you to keep track of food, potty breaks, accidents and wins!

Keeping a journal or calendar will help you see patterns and understand when your puppy eats, goes potty, and when accidents happen.  This is essential when you have multiple people in the house hold and need to coordinate.  You also want to keep track when you have a big win (no accidents today! he went to the back door!).  Tracking your even little wins will remind you of how far you’ve come when you have a set back or hit a bump.

Complete Guide to Potty Training Your Puppy

I’ve created a guide for you that summarize the steps and tips I talk about in the episode. I’ve also created a one-page Puppy  Tracker for you to use to keep track of your dog’s schedule, any accidents that happen and your successes.

Keeping track of these things will be extremely helpful if coordinating with multiple people in the household. It is also a great way to find patterns if things aren’t going smoothly.

Wrap up

There will be a time that you’ll be sitting on the couch at night watching TV with your dog at your feet and you’re going to be like, huh, remember that time, the only thing we thought about was does the dog have to go outside?

It will happen, I promise you.  Potty training is a rite of passage. Every single puppy owner goes through it.  It’s one of those things that if you ever get another puppy, you’re going to forget how hard it was until its happening again.

Hugs and Belly Rubs!

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere

Indoor pads (or wee-wee pads) have a purpose but house training should not be one of them.

Indoor pads are one of those products that seem like a good idea and great tool to make house training easier but in the long run it does anything but.

Not only does it add more work in the long run but it is possible your pup may never get fully housetrained.  

In this episode, I talk about why I strongly discourage the use of indoor pads while housetraining.

If your intention is to eventually teach your puppy to only go outside these pads can be detrimental to this training.

If you plan to use indoor pads indefinitely, I give you a few reasons why that may not be a great idea either.

For some indoor pads are a great option but for most, they are not.

Potty training is a right of passage for any puppy owner.  It’s a time-consuming process that can be frustrating at times so it’s only natural for us to grab something that might make it easier.  However, I promise you if you put in the work now, it will be worth it in the end.

More description

Indoor pads (or wee-wee pads) have a purpose but house training should not be one of them.

Indoor pads are one of those products that seem like a good idea and great tool to make house training easier but in the long run it does anything but.

Not only does it add more work in the long run but it is possible your pup may never get fully housetrained.  

In this episode, I talk about why I strongly discourage the use of indoor pads while housetraining.

If your intention is to eventually teach your puppy to only go outside these pads can be detrimental to this training.

If you plan to use indoor pads indefinitely, I give you a few reasons why that may not be a great idea either.

For some indoor pads are a great option but for most, they are not.

Potty training is a right of passage for any puppy owner.  It’s a time-consuming process that can be frustrating at times so it’s only natural for us to grab something that might make it easier.  However, I promise you if you put in the work now, it will be worth it in the end.

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere

When your dog jumps on you, your family and your friends it can quickly turn into an annoying habit.

Luckily there are a few things we can do to prevent or correct this behavior.

Most of the time our dog jumps on us it is to get our attention. And if we are honest most of the time, that is exactly what we give them. Remember attention is attention, good or bad. So even if you are telling your dog no and pushing him off you, to your dog, that’s attention.

Why does your dog jump?

It usually starts when they are puppies because they are so darn cute and it seems harmless. Who can resist those big eyes, right?? Only, when our dogs grow up it may not be as cute and they don’t know the difference. If our pup has always jumped up on us for attention and if it works for them that is what they will always do, muddy paws or not.

In this episode, I talk about preventing, ignoring and redirecting your dog’s jumping. I use coming home as the main example but these tips can be used in whichever scenario your dog is jumping on you.

Links in this episode:

Episode 4: How to Get a Strong Recall: Three Things You Can Do Now to Teach Your Dog to Come Every Time You Call.

(I also want to mention I am very surprised I have gotten to episode 8 without my back up singers making an appearance.)

More description

When your dog jumps on you, your family and your friends it can quickly turn into an annoying habit.

Luckily there are a few things we can do to prevent or correct this behavior.

Most of the time our dog jumps on us it is to get our attention. And if we are honest most of the time, that is exactly what we give them. Remember attention is attention, good or bad. So even if you are telling your dog no and pushing him off you, to your dog, that’s attention.

Why does your dog jump?

It usually starts when they are puppies because they are so darn cute and it seems harmless. Who can resist those big eyes, right?? Only, when our dogs grow up it may not be as cute and they don’t know the difference. If our pup has always jumped up on us for attention and if it works for them that is what they will always do, muddy paws or not.

In this episode, I talk about preventing, ignoring and redirecting your dog’s jumping. I use coming home as the main example but these tips can be used in whichever scenario your dog is jumping on you.

Links in this episode:

Episode 4: How to Get a Strong Recall: Three Things You Can Do Now to Teach Your Dog to Come Every Time You Call.

(I also want to mention I am very surprised I have gotten to episode 8 without my back up singers making an appearance.)

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere
Published 2017-06-07

YNP #QA01: Questions and Answers

13 min
View

I had a lot of fun recording our first Q&A episode!  You asked some great questions that have influenced the topics of many episodes and now I want to answer some specific questions.

In this episode, I answer three great questions sent in by listeners.

Topics include:
  • Multiple dog household
  • Handing a new young dog with older dogs
  • The difference between adding a male or female dog to your pack.  

If you have your own questions to ask we want to hear them.  You can email us directly at [yournewpuppy (@) playtimepaws.com] or if you sign up for our weekly updates you will not only get information when new episodes are released but you can reply directly to the email that is sent to you.

Links discussed in this episode

Episode #002:  Which Type of Dog is Right for You

Episode #005:  How (and Why) to Make Their Crate Your Dog’s Best Friend

Episode #006:  My Dog Steals my Stuff!! How to Protect your Dog and your Things

Episode #007: Why Dogs Dig and What You Can Do About It

Psychology Today – Aggression Between Dogs in the Same Household

If you are enjoying this Podcast head over to iTunes and leave us a rating and review!  This will help others find us!

More description

I had a lot of fun recording our first Q&A episode!  You asked some great questions that have influenced the topics of many episodes and now I want to answer some specific questions.

In this episode, I answer three great questions sent in by listeners.

Topics include:
  • Multiple dog household
  • Handing a new young dog with older dogs
  • The difference between adding a male or female dog to your pack.  

If you have your own questions to ask we want to hear them.  You can email us directly at [yournewpuppy (@) playtimepaws.com] or if you sign up for our weekly updates you will not only get information when new episodes are released but you can reply directly to the email that is sent to you.

Links discussed in this episode

Episode #002:  Which Type of Dog is Right for You

Episode #005:  How (and Why) to Make Their Crate Your Dog’s Best Friend

Episode #006:  My Dog Steals my Stuff!! How to Protect your Dog and your Things

Episode #007: Why Dogs Dig and What You Can Do About It

Psychology Today – Aggression Between Dogs in the Same Household

If you are enjoying this Podcast head over to iTunes and leave us a rating and review!  This will help others find us!

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere

Does your backyard look like someone has been digging for gold?  Having a crater filled back yard is frustrating, not pretty and can even be dangerous.  

Digging is one of those things that dogs just love to do.  It’s right up there with barking and chewing and being with us.

The most common reasons why a dog digs is boredom or has too much energy and he is looking to entertain himself.  Other reasons could be to cool dog, chase an animal or even escape.

Because this is such a natural behavior your best bet is to redirect or distract from the digging instead of trying to just stop it.

In this episode, I talk about the reasons dogs dig and some ways to help save your yard.

I talk a little about using a “sandbox” which is a designated place in the yard where your dog is allowed to dig.  This is what I do and it works well.  

In fact, here is Lucy sitting in one of her holes.  It’s her favorite because it’s nice and cool and she can watch the street.

More description

Does your backyard look like someone has been digging for gold?  Having a crater filled back yard is frustrating, not pretty and can even be dangerous.  

Digging is one of those things that dogs just love to do.  It’s right up there with barking and chewing and being with us.

The most common reasons why a dog digs is boredom or has too much energy and he is looking to entertain himself.  Other reasons could be to cool dog, chase an animal or even escape.

Because this is such a natural behavior your best bet is to redirect or distract from the digging instead of trying to just stop it.

In this episode, I talk about the reasons dogs dig and some ways to help save your yard.

I talk a little about using a “sandbox” which is a designated place in the yard where your dog is allowed to dig.  This is what I do and it works well.  

In fact, here is Lucy sitting in one of her holes.  It’s her favorite because it’s nice and cool and she can watch the street.

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere

What do we do when our dog steals our stuff?

We all know the scene: it’s gotten a little too quiet so you go searching for the little fuzzball that was just at your feet. You turn the corner and there he is, chomping happily away on the book you were reading earlier, or maybe it’s something that clearly came out of the garbage.

First, you panic because don’t know how much he actually ate. Once you know he’s ok, it’s time to clean up the mess or mourn the possession you are now tossing in the trash.

Dogs love to chew. It’s just a fact. It’s one of the basic things that all dogs do. But when our dog steals our things to chew on it can be dangerous and at the very least, frustrating.

What do we do to protect our dog and our stuff?

In this episode, I talk about a few things that you can start doing to stop your dog from stealing your stuff. I also go over how to teach him what he is allowed to chew on.

To give you an example I have a case study for you to give you an idea of how I handled this in a real world situation.

Links and Info in this episode:

Episode 5 (Crate Training)

More description

What do we do when our dog steals our stuff?

We all know the scene: it’s gotten a little too quiet so you go searching for the little fuzzball that was just at your feet. You turn the corner and there he is, chomping happily away on the book you were reading earlier, or maybe it’s something that clearly came out of the garbage.

First, you panic because don’t know how much he actually ate. Once you know he’s ok, it’s time to clean up the mess or mourn the possession you are now tossing in the trash.

Dogs love to chew. It’s just a fact. It’s one of the basic things that all dogs do. But when our dog steals our things to chew on it can be dangerous and at the very least, frustrating.

What do we do to protect our dog and our stuff?

In this episode, I talk about a few things that you can start doing to stop your dog from stealing your stuff. I also go over how to teach him what he is allowed to chew on.

To give you an example I have a case study for you to give you an idea of how I handled this in a real world situation.

Links and Info in this episode:

Episode 5 (Crate Training)

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere

When we think of crate training, we usually think of potty training our puppy.  It makes sense because these two things go hand and hand.  Using a crate is the best and most efficient way to potty train our dogs.  

In this episode, I want to convince you that crate training goes way beyond potty training.  If done correctly a crate can be an essential training tool and a way to give you peace of mind long after potty training is over.  

In this episode of Your New Puppy I will go over:

  • Benefits to crate training your dog (and keep them crate trained).
  • Pros and cons of the main types of crates.
  • Where in your house your crate should go.
  • How to make your dog LOVE his crate.
  • Tips if your dog doesn’t love his crate right now.

Press play to listen to this podcast episode or subscribe to Your New Puppy where ever you listen to your podcasts.

Resistance to Crate Training

I understand a lot of new dog owners can have resistance to using a crate altogether.

A lot of people see it as a cage or think it’s unfair to the dog.  Especially if you adopted them from a shelter. I hear this a lot that, “they were in a cage in the shelter. I don’t want to have them in one at home…” 

I want you to look at it from a different perspective. We have cribs and playpens for our children to give them a place where they can play or sleep.  We have peace of mind knowing that they are safe while they’re in there. A crate is for a dog is no different.

That’s why I’m going to give you some tips and pointers to make this a great oasis for your dog. That way your dog’s going to love it and you’re going to have peace of mind. It’s a win-win situation.

Benefits to Crate Training Your Dog

The most common reasons for crate training is to help with potty training and keep them safe (and our stuff safe) while they are still in the chewing stage. 

What happens is, once he’s house trained and you trust him to be in the house unsupervised, then we come away from the crate and we stop using it altogether.

There are a lot of reasons to keep them used to and loving their crate way beyond puppy-hood.

When you have to board your dog. Especially if you go with a traditional boarding where they’re going to be confined, even if it’s only at night, if your dog already has a good association with the crate with that, there’s an extra peace of mind knowing that he’s going to be comfortable there.

When I used to board dogs in my house I didn’t require a crate (with the exception of puppies not yet potty trained)  But if they were crate trained, I highly recommend bringing their crate because the dogs who slept in the crates at night made the best transition to the new environment. I very rarely had any kind of whining or anxiety.

If your dog ever has to stay at the vet, either overnight or just during the day, they’re going to keep them in a kennel or crate.  Knowing that they will be comfortable in the kennel can take away some of the stress that you will probably feel from having to leave them there in the first place. 

The few times Lucy had to stay at the vet they commented to me on how comfortable my she was while staying there.  She just curled up in the kennel and went sleep. 

If you have people coming in and out of your house. They could be professionals working on your house or if you have a cleaning service that comes in a few times a month. 

If you have visitors. Not everyone likes dogs (I don’t understand it, but I respect it).  Or everyone is dressed up. Maybe it’s a child that’s a little scared of dogs.  It’s great to have an option where you can give your dog a bully stick or a really great toy and he can chill in this crate for a little bit and be perfectly content.

If there is an emergency. It’s something we don’t always want to think about but if we ever need to evacuate our home if your dog can be kept in a crate, the options of where you can go and bring your dog with you, increase. 

These are things that aren’t going to happen every day, but when they do happen, it’s really, nice to have that option. 

Once your dog is an adult you don’t have to keep them in their crate every day but just enough that they are used to it. 

For my dogs, what I do is every single time I give my dogs a bully stick, they chew on it in their crate. Now as soon as my hand goes into the bully stick bin, they both run to their crates and that’s where they chew on it.  Lucy, my younger girl, still sleeps in her crate every night (I’ll talk about her crate more in a minute).  

​Main Types of Crates 

The first thing that you have to think about is which type of crate is going to work best for you. Let’s look at a few of the most common ones. 

Wire (Life Stages) Crate:

The most popular one is the one that looks like a cage. It’s the wire crate also known as the Life Stages Crate. 

The biggest advantage to the wire crate is it has a divider where you can make the crate smaller when your dog is a puppy and then you move it out and the crate grows with your dog. Eventually, you can take it out and the dog has the whole crate.

The reason this is important is when it comes to potty training, the size of the crate matters.  You want to come give him enough room where, he can stand up, turn around, and lie down, but no more.  If you give them too much room they may go to the bathroom in one corner and then sleep in the other and you DO NOT want that. Once he learns he can go to the bathroom and the crate you use lose the crate as a tool then house training just becomes a whole lot harder.  

(I go into potty training in detail in YNP #010: Complete Guide to Potty Training Your Puppy)

They’ll also fold down easily for storage and travel. They can be a little heavy depending on the size.

With the wire crates, I also recommend putting blankets over them to kind of give them a snug feeling (I’ll talk more about this in a moment).

 
  • Most versatile.
  • Divider to change the size of the crate to grow with the dog.
  • Folds down for storage or transport.
  • Looks the most like a cage.
  • Needs towels or blankets on the outside to make cozy.
Plastic Kennel (Enclosed Crate)

The second most popular one is the plastic Kennel.  What’s nice about this one is that they’re already kind of enclosed. So they already have that nice snug feeling.

The drawback is, is that they don’t fold down nicely. So if you have a large crate for a large dog they can get big and bulky to store and travel with.   

They also don’t have a divider where the crate grows with the dog.  So you might have to buy a small one when they are a puppy and get a bigger one later.

If you have a small dog, it’s really easy to carry them around in these crates.

  • Already enclosed and snug.
  • Airport approved.
  • No way to adjust the size for growing puppies.
  • Can be bulky to travel with.
Soft (Travel) Crate

Another one that they have is called a travel crate or a soft-sided crate. It’s incredibly light and it’s already enclosed. A lot of them have zippers on the sides where you can open up a flat and vent it but still have a nice cozy feeling. They fold down super easy to take up very little space for storage or travel. 

It doesn’t have the life stages option where it will grow with the dog. The other downside is because it’s only a canvas material, puppies and big chewers can chew through the material. 

This is my favorite option if you plan to take your dog on adventures with you. 

  • Folds down and is light for easy travel.
  • Already enclosed and snug.
  • No way to adjust the size for growing puppies.
  • Puppies and heavy chewers can chew holes in the material.
“End Table” Crate

The last type is these really nice crates that look like furniture. It’s essentially this really nice piece of furniture that your dog can sleep in. 

They are expensive and there are no travel options with them. It can be a good option if you are limited on space so your end table can also be your dog’s crate.  Or if you just want a nice looking crate.

  • Attractive ​
  • Can second as an end table.
  • No travel or storage option.
  • Expensive

To pick which one works best for you it all about how it’s going to fit into your life, how it’s going to work with your dog, and what you think the dogs gonna enjoy the most.

There are different options out there because everybody’s situation is different.

Location in your house

Another decision to make is where in the house you should put the crate. This is another one I can’t answer for you. 

When they’re a puppy and they’re going to be in the crate more often because of potty training or you simply can’t supervise.

During this time, it’s nice to have them in a high traffic area, like a kitchen or a living room because then the dog will still be with the family even if he’s hanging out in his crate napping or chewing on their bone during the day.

That being said, I also know that a lot of people like their dog to sleep in the bedroom with them.  And your new puppy with adjust better at night. I have also seen a lot of puppies adjust just fine not being in the bedroom at night.

So…

Do you keep the crate in the bedroom? Do you keep the crate in the main family area? Do you have two crates? Do you move the crate?

It might be something you might have to play with to see where the dog’s going to be the most comfortable and where it works best into your schedule, your family’s lifestyle.

Create yourDog’s Oasis

Okay. So let’s get down to how we’re going to make this the best place for your dog to be. Your dog’s little oasis.

Our goal is to give him a good association with his crate.  We can do this in a few ways.  

To start, never ever, ever, ever use the crate as punishment. It’s really easy, when the dog’s jumping around, really active, he’s nipping and he kind of gets out of control, to get a little frustrated and put them in this crate. You want to avoid this. The crate is not a timeout tool. The crate is somewhere for him to rest and relax.

What IS a good idea is to get him nice and tired before putting him in the crate. Then he’s just out and he’s sleeping and it becomes the place where he gets to rest without being disturbed.  You can also scoop him up and put him in his crate whenever he’s taking a nap during the day. 

You can have special treats that are only for the crate. Having that special treat for just in the crate gets makes the crate an extra special crate.  I mentioned before that I use bully sticks.  This can also be a deer antler or a favorite toy.   

Feed him in his crate.  You can put his food bowl right in the crate with him. I recommend using a Kong.  You can stuff a Kong with their food, maybe a little bit of peanut butter or some other healthy treat like yogurt and mix it in there. It’s great because he’s occupied in his crate, he’s happy because he’s eating this fun, treat and he’s also taking more time and more energy just to eat his meal

I talk about using a Kong for mealtime in more detail in Episode 18: Ditch the Bowl and Make Mealtime an Event

Make it cozy!  When I talked about the different crates above I mentioned making the crate snug and cozy.  This is the most important step.  You want to create a little cave.  This is a picture of Lucy’s crate.  I have to pull other dogs out of her crate all the time because everyone wants to sleep in it.  I have all sides covered with a blanket to make a little cave.  Then inside is a fleece bed and soft blankets to curl up in.  

Note: Young puppies will probably chew on the bedding.  Using an old towel or possibly no bedding at all may be necessary at first. 

Each of these things you can do at first just to get them to love his crate. You don’t have to do it forever (or you can!). You can anything that’s gonna be enjoyable, safe and he’s in his crate.

Pro tip: If you give them a squeaky toy, take it out before you go to bed.  Especially if he’s going to be in your bedroom because sometimes they don’t know that at 2:00 am it’s not the time to play it with that squeaky toy.

Introducing your puppy (or dog)

If you just have a puppy or if you’re bringing a new dog home this is relatively easy.

Follow these steps to introduce or reintroduce your dog to their crate.  Only move onto the next step when your dog is comfortable with the current step.

  1. Set up the crate and leave the door open.  Don’t ask them to go in, just let them get used to the crate’s presence. An option is to feed him near the crate.
  2. Play with your dog and throw toys and treats into the crate.  Continue to leave the door open. Let your dog run in and get the toy and treat and come right back out. 
  3. Continue to throw his toy or treats in the crate.  When he goes in close the door and immediately open it.
  4. Continue to throw his toy or treats in the crate.  Close the door for longer and longer periods of time (1 second, 5 seconds, 10 seconds, etc.).  
If you’re dog already doesn’t like the crate

First we want to see why your dog is uncomfortable and it could have nothing to do with the crate.  These are the most common reasons that a puppy or dog doesn’t like their crate.

Something “bad” is happening when they go in their crate.  If you only use the crate when you leave the house then your dog is associating his crate with you leaving.  Or if you put them in the crate and then use the vacuum.  Be aware of what is happening while your dog is in their crate.  Remember we want make sure it’s a positive experience. 

They don’t hate their crate, they are getting some kind of attention for whining.   Most of the time when a dog, especially a puppy is continually whining in the crate it isn’t that they hate the crate, they are trying to get your attention.  Walking back into the room, a quick “it’s OK”, or worst of all, letting them out will encourage them to do it again.  You need to completely ignore them whine you are initially crating training a puppy.  

I talk more about why puppies will whine in the crate in Episode 28: 5 Reasons to Use the Crate When You’re Home.

Big picture

Crate training your dog has lots of benefits.  When done correctly it will become a multi functional training tool.  

Pick the crate and location that works best for your family.  Then create a good association by making it cozy, making all good things happen in the crate, and never use it as punishment. 

Press play to listen to the full podcast episode.

What’s Next?

Want crate training to actually work — without the stress, the guilt, or the constant second-guessing?

That’s exactly what we do inside YOUR Perfect Puppy, my digital program that gives you a clear, practical plan for every stage of puppyhood and direct access to me to ask questions like:

 “Am I doing this right?” “Why won’t he stop crying?” or “How do I know he loves his crate?”

You’ll also get ongoing support through Playtime Paws Academy — with weekly live calls, a private community, and real-life solutions to help you feel confident as you raise your well-mannered pup.

👉 Click here to check out YOUR Perfect Puppy.

Let’s make that crate your dog’s favorite spot and give you the peace of mind you deserve.

More description

When we think of crate training, we usually think of potty training our puppy.  It makes sense because these two things go hand and hand.  Using a crate is the best and most efficient way to potty train our dogs.  

In this episode, I want to convince you that crate training goes way beyond potty training.  If done correctly a crate can be an essential training tool and a way to give you peace of mind long after potty training is over.  

In this episode of Your New Puppy I will go over:

  • Benefits to crate training your dog (and keep them crate trained).
  • Pros and cons of the main types of crates.
  • Where in your house your crate should go.
  • How to make your dog LOVE his crate.
  • Tips if your dog doesn’t love his crate right now.

Press play to listen to this podcast episode or subscribe to Your New Puppy where ever you listen to your podcasts.

Resistance to Crate Training

I understand a lot of new dog owners can have resistance to using a crate altogether.

A lot of people see it as a cage or think it’s unfair to the dog.  Especially if you adopted them from a shelter. I hear this a lot that, “they were in a cage in the shelter. I don’t want to have them in one at home…” 

I want you to look at it from a different perspective. We have cribs and playpens for our children to give them a place where they can play or sleep.  We have peace of mind knowing that they are safe while they’re in there. A crate is for a dog is no different.

That’s why I’m going to give you some tips and pointers to make this a great oasis for your dog. That way your dog’s going to love it and you’re going to have peace of mind. It’s a win-win situation.

Benefits to Crate Training Your Dog

The most common reasons for crate training is to help with potty training and keep them safe (and our stuff safe) while they are still in the chewing stage. 

What happens is, once he’s house trained and you trust him to be in the house unsupervised, then we come away from the crate and we stop using it altogether.

There are a lot of reasons to keep them used to and loving their crate way beyond puppy-hood.

When you have to board your dog. Especially if you go with a traditional boarding where they’re going to be confined, even if it’s only at night, if your dog already has a good association with the crate with that, there’s an extra peace of mind knowing that he’s going to be comfortable there.

When I used to board dogs in my house I didn’t require a crate (with the exception of puppies not yet potty trained)  But if they were crate trained, I highly recommend bringing their crate because the dogs who slept in the crates at night made the best transition to the new environment. I very rarely had any kind of whining or anxiety.

If your dog ever has to stay at the vet, either overnight or just during the day, they’re going to keep them in a kennel or crate.  Knowing that they will be comfortable in the kennel can take away some of the stress that you will probably feel from having to leave them there in the first place. 

The few times Lucy had to stay at the vet they commented to me on how comfortable my she was while staying there.  She just curled up in the kennel and went sleep. 

If you have people coming in and out of your house. They could be professionals working on your house or if you have a cleaning service that comes in a few times a month. 

If you have visitors. Not everyone likes dogs (I don’t understand it, but I respect it).  Or everyone is dressed up. Maybe it’s a child that’s a little scared of dogs.  It’s great to have an option where you can give your dog a bully stick or a really great toy and he can chill in this crate for a little bit and be perfectly content.

If there is an emergency. It’s something we don’t always want to think about but if we ever need to evacuate our home if your dog can be kept in a crate, the options of where you can go and bring your dog with you, increase. 

These are things that aren’t going to happen every day, but when they do happen, it’s really, nice to have that option. 

Once your dog is an adult you don’t have to keep them in their crate every day but just enough that they are used to it. 

For my dogs, what I do is every single time I give my dogs a bully stick, they chew on it in their crate. Now as soon as my hand goes into the bully stick bin, they both run to their crates and that’s where they chew on it.  Lucy, my younger girl, still sleeps in her crate every night (I’ll talk about her crate more in a minute).  

​Main Types of Crates 

The first thing that you have to think about is which type of crate is going to work best for you. Let’s look at a few of the most common ones. 

Wire (Life Stages) Crate:

The most popular one is the one that looks like a cage. It’s the wire crate also known as the Life Stages Crate. 

The biggest advantage to the wire crate is it has a divider where you can make the crate smaller when your dog is a puppy and then you move it out and the crate grows with your dog. Eventually, you can take it out and the dog has the whole crate.

The reason this is important is when it comes to potty training, the size of the crate matters.  You want to come give him enough room where, he can stand up, turn around, and lie down, but no more.  If you give them too much room they may go to the bathroom in one corner and then sleep in the other and you DO NOT want that. Once he learns he can go to the bathroom and the crate you use lose the crate as a tool then house training just becomes a whole lot harder.  

(I go into potty training in detail in YNP #010: Complete Guide to Potty Training Your Puppy)

They’ll also fold down easily for storage and travel. They can be a little heavy depending on the size.

With the wire crates, I also recommend putting blankets over them to kind of give them a snug feeling (I’ll talk more about this in a moment).

 
  • Most versatile.
  • Divider to change the size of the crate to grow with the dog.
  • Folds down for storage or transport.
  • Looks the most like a cage.
  • Needs towels or blankets on the outside to make cozy.
Plastic Kennel (Enclosed Crate)

The second most popular one is the plastic Kennel.  What’s nice about this one is that they’re already kind of enclosed. So they already have that nice snug feeling.

The drawback is, is that they don’t fold down nicely. So if you have a large crate for a large dog they can get big and bulky to store and travel with.   

They also don’t have a divider where the crate grows with the dog.  So you might have to buy a small one when they are a puppy and get a bigger one later.

If you have a small dog, it’s really easy to carry them around in these crates.

  • Already enclosed and snug.
  • Airport approved.
  • No way to adjust the size for growing puppies.
  • Can be bulky to travel with.
Soft (Travel) Crate

Another one that they have is called a travel crate or a soft-sided crate. It’s incredibly light and it’s already enclosed. A lot of them have zippers on the sides where you can open up a flat and vent it but still have a nice cozy feeling. They fold down super easy to take up very little space for storage or travel. 

It doesn’t have the life stages option where it will grow with the dog. The other downside is because it’s only a canvas material, puppies and big chewers can chew through the material. 

This is my favorite option if you plan to take your dog on adventures with you. 

  • Folds down and is light for easy travel.
  • Already enclosed and snug.
  • No way to adjust the size for growing puppies.
  • Puppies and heavy chewers can chew holes in the material.
“End Table” Crate

The last type is these really nice crates that look like furniture. It’s essentially this really nice piece of furniture that your dog can sleep in. 

They are expensive and there are no travel options with them. It can be a good option if you are limited on space so your end table can also be your dog’s crate.  Or if you just want a nice looking crate.

  • Attractive ​
  • Can second as an end table.
  • No travel or storage option.
  • Expensive

To pick which one works best for you it all about how it’s going to fit into your life, how it’s going to work with your dog, and what you think the dogs gonna enjoy the most.

There are different options out there because everybody’s situation is different.

Location in your house

Another decision to make is where in the house you should put the crate. This is another one I can’t answer for you. 

When they’re a puppy and they’re going to be in the crate more often because of potty training or you simply can’t supervise.

During this time, it’s nice to have them in a high traffic area, like a kitchen or a living room because then the dog will still be with the family even if he’s hanging out in his crate napping or chewing on their bone during the day.

That being said, I also know that a lot of people like their dog to sleep in the bedroom with them.  And your new puppy with adjust better at night. I have also seen a lot of puppies adjust just fine not being in the bedroom at night.

So…

Do you keep the crate in the bedroom? Do you keep the crate in the main family area? Do you have two crates? Do you move the crate?

It might be something you might have to play with to see where the dog’s going to be the most comfortable and where it works best into your schedule, your family’s lifestyle.

Create yourDog’s Oasis

Okay. So let’s get down to how we’re going to make this the best place for your dog to be. Your dog’s little oasis.

Our goal is to give him a good association with his crate.  We can do this in a few ways.  

To start, never ever, ever, ever use the crate as punishment. It’s really easy, when the dog’s jumping around, really active, he’s nipping and he kind of gets out of control, to get a little frustrated and put them in this crate. You want to avoid this. The crate is not a timeout tool. The crate is somewhere for him to rest and relax.

What IS a good idea is to get him nice and tired before putting him in the crate. Then he’s just out and he’s sleeping and it becomes the place where he gets to rest without being disturbed.  You can also scoop him up and put him in his crate whenever he’s taking a nap during the day. 

You can have special treats that are only for the crate. Having that special treat for just in the crate gets makes the crate an extra special crate.  I mentioned before that I use bully sticks.  This can also be a deer antler or a favorite toy.   

Feed him in his crate.  You can put his food bowl right in the crate with him. I recommend using a Kong.  You can stuff a Kong with their food, maybe a little bit of peanut butter or some other healthy treat like yogurt and mix it in there. It’s great because he’s occupied in his crate, he’s happy because he’s eating this fun, treat and he’s also taking more time and more energy just to eat his meal

I talk about using a Kong for mealtime in more detail in Episode 18: Ditch the Bowl and Make Mealtime an Event

Make it cozy!  When I talked about the different crates above I mentioned making the crate snug and cozy.  This is the most important step.  You want to create a little cave.  This is a picture of Lucy’s crate.  I have to pull other dogs out of her crate all the time because everyone wants to sleep in it.  I have all sides covered with a blanket to make a little cave.  Then inside is a fleece bed and soft blankets to curl up in.  

Note: Young puppies will probably chew on the bedding.  Using an old towel or possibly no bedding at all may be necessary at first. 

Each of these things you can do at first just to get them to love his crate. You don’t have to do it forever (or you can!). You can anything that’s gonna be enjoyable, safe and he’s in his crate.

Pro tip: If you give them a squeaky toy, take it out before you go to bed.  Especially if he’s going to be in your bedroom because sometimes they don’t know that at 2:00 am it’s not the time to play it with that squeaky toy.

Introducing your puppy (or dog)

If you just have a puppy or if you’re bringing a new dog home this is relatively easy.

Follow these steps to introduce or reintroduce your dog to their crate.  Only move onto the next step when your dog is comfortable with the current step.

  1. Set up the crate and leave the door open.  Don’t ask them to go in, just let them get used to the crate’s presence. An option is to feed him near the crate.
  2. Play with your dog and throw toys and treats into the crate.  Continue to leave the door open. Let your dog run in and get the toy and treat and come right back out. 
  3. Continue to throw his toy or treats in the crate.  When he goes in close the door and immediately open it.
  4. Continue to throw his toy or treats in the crate.  Close the door for longer and longer periods of time (1 second, 5 seconds, 10 seconds, etc.).  
If you’re dog already doesn’t like the crate

First we want to see why your dog is uncomfortable and it could have nothing to do with the crate.  These are the most common reasons that a puppy or dog doesn’t like their crate.

Something “bad” is happening when they go in their crate.  If you only use the crate when you leave the house then your dog is associating his crate with you leaving.  Or if you put them in the crate and then use the vacuum.  Be aware of what is happening while your dog is in their crate.  Remember we want make sure it’s a positive experience. 

They don’t hate their crate, they are getting some kind of attention for whining.   Most of the time when a dog, especially a puppy is continually whining in the crate it isn’t that they hate the crate, they are trying to get your attention.  Walking back into the room, a quick “it’s OK”, or worst of all, letting them out will encourage them to do it again.  You need to completely ignore them whine you are initially crating training a puppy.  

I talk more about why puppies will whine in the crate in Episode 28: 5 Reasons to Use the Crate When You’re Home.

Big picture

Crate training your dog has lots of benefits.  When done correctly it will become a multi functional training tool.  

Pick the crate and location that works best for your family.  Then create a good association by making it cozy, making all good things happen in the crate, and never use it as punishment. 

Press play to listen to the full podcast episode.

What’s Next?

Want crate training to actually work — without the stress, the guilt, or the constant second-guessing?

That’s exactly what we do inside YOUR Perfect Puppy, my digital program that gives you a clear, practical plan for every stage of puppyhood and direct access to me to ask questions like:

 “Am I doing this right?” “Why won’t he stop crying?” or “How do I know he loves his crate?”

You’ll also get ongoing support through Playtime Paws Academy — with weekly live calls, a private community, and real-life solutions to help you feel confident as you raise your well-mannered pup.

👉 Click here to check out YOUR Perfect Puppy.

Let’s make that crate your dog’s favorite spot and give you the peace of mind you deserve.

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere

In today’s episode, we’re going to talk about your recall command; most commonly known as “come”. 

I’m not going to be talk about teaching your dog the actual command.

What I am going to talk about is building a few everyday habits so when it comes time to teach your dog the command, it’s going to be a heck of a lot easier.  In fact, if you do this right, a formal command may not be necessary.  Your dog will always want to come running when you call them.

If you have a brand new puppy you are going to start these habits from day one. 

If you’ve had a dog for a while and maybe aren’t doing some of these things, that’s okay, because you’re just going to make today day one!

In addition, I have a bonus that teaches you how to play a game with your dog that reinforces everything we are going to talk about.  It’s also a great way to tire out your dog and create some family bonding!  More on that in a minute.

The three habits I’m going to go over are:

  1. Never call your dog to you for ANYTHING your dog sees as negative.
  2. NEVER chase your dog.
  3. Add a collar grab.

Each of these 3 habits is based on the fact that we are always training our dog, whether we realize it or not. If you have noticed that your dog knows you’re leaving the house an hour before you actually do, you know what I’m talking about (sometimes I’m a little disappointed at how predictable I am).  That’s because they are ALWAYS paying attention to our body language, actions, and habits.

We’re going to use this to our advantage. Let’s get started.

Psst: Don’t miss out on the free tool I tell you all about at the end!

Press play to listen to this podcast episode or subscribe to Your New Puppy where ever you listen to your podcasts.

1. NEVER call your dog to you for ANYTHING your dog sees as negative  (and every time they do come to you make it a good thing)

This is where you need to be aware of your own actions. Sometimes we have to change our own habits first, which we all know isn’t easy.

The recall command isn’t about getting your dog to listen; it’s about you being in competition with their environment.  We don’t want him to have any idea in their head that coming to you is the wrong decision.  Every single time he comes to you it’s a good thing because one day it’s going to be a choice between you and that squirrel across the street and you want to give yourself a fighting chance.

For example, he’s running around, he’s playing outside, you call him to you and you bring him inside. From your dog’s point of view, he was playing and having fun and when he came running over to you he had to go inside (boo!).   

How about when she’s playing with something she shouldn’t have. You call him to you and then you take it away from her. Well, all she knows is she came running over to you and she got him new fun toy taken away.  

This goes for bath time, or clipping their nails, or giving them medicine (unless it’s wrapped in peanut butter, then feel free to call them to you).   Anything that your dog is going to see as not fun, you go to your dog, do not call him to you.

Before you call your dog to you, look at it from his point of view and decide can I call him to me or should I go to get him. 

It’s gonna take a little practice to start seeing things through your dog’s eyes. It’s something to practice and to always, always keep in mind.  We want to be doing this every single day so it becomes a habit for us too.

14 Days to a Stronger Recall

Teaching your dog to come to you in any environment is the key to your peace of mind and your dog’s freedom.  In just 14 days you’ll be on your way to feeling the pride and joy that comes with having a strong, reliable recall with your dog. 

But did you know teaching your dog to come when called isn’t just teaching your dog another command. It’s developing a day habit with your dog.  Your own behavior is the most powerful tool you have when teaching your dog a strong, reliable recall. 

Inside 14 Days to a Stronger Recall you’ll learn the skills your dog needs, the habits you need and the mistakes to avoid to have your dog coming to you in any environment. 

2. NEVER chase your dog (and teach games where your dog chases you) 

Chase is one of those fundamental games that dogs love, love, love to play. If you watch a group of dogs playing, you will almost always see a game of chase happening.

Your dog has probably tried to play this with you.

DO NOT CHASE THEM.  Even in play.

If you play the chase game with them, you know the one, he has a toy maybe you’re running around the yard.  It is a fun game to play, but you don’t want him to decide to play that game when he has something dangerous or he just got off-leash and he’s in the middle of the street. 

If it’s a game that he’s never played with you, then he’s not gonna think to play it in those times.

What I DO encourage you to do is flip the game and get him to chase you.  You get him all excited and then you run in the other direction.  Then if he knows the game of chasing YOU,  when he get’s off-leash, you can get him all riled up and run back to the front door. He’ll be like, “oh yeah, I know this game. We play this game all the time!!”

Test this out. Next time you call your dog to you, shuffle back a couple of steps you’ll notice him pick up his speed.   It’s a natural instinct for dogs to chase something that is moving away from them.  Any time we can work with their natural instincts, let’s do it!

It’s a great tool and a great game to have in your back pocket when you need to get your dog off the street or back on his leash or away from the fence, or the unfriendly dog that might be walking down the street.

3. Add a collar grab

The last thing I want you to do is incredibly simple and you will thank me for it one day.  I want you to include a collar grab into your dog’s everyday training.  

To do a collar grab is simply slip two fingers under your dog’s collar and then immediately release. 

A good time to start this when you‘re training him to sit.  Before you give him the treat, reach down grab his collar and then give him the treat.   You can also do this when you are playing with their toys or scratching their belly, or anytime you are handling them.  Do this a few times a day so it’s something they are used to you doing and even have a good association with it.

There are a couple of reasons this will help you. When the time comes and you get them to come to you, she’s not going to think twice about you reaching around and grabbing a hold of his collar to put his leash on because you’ve done it a hundred times.

Any of us who has that dog that will grab a treat and run or just sit out of arm’s length from you or try to play keep away you know how this can help.

If we make it part of his everyday training, then it’s something that he expects.

A second, and equally important, reason why I like to have my clients do this is because it’s the most common for a dog to bite someone he knows is when you grab his collar. 

The reason this happens is when two dogs fight, the first thing they do is go for their neck. And when we want to get a hold of our dog we grab the collar.  Think about if you saw a dog running around the street and you want to grab them for safety, whether you knew the dog or not, you’re probably going to grab his collar cause there’s nothing else on them to grab.

So we want to desensitize him to it and associate it with something good.  I like doing it when you teach your dog to sit because treats are usually involved. It doesn’t have to be every time, but enough where he’s used to it and he’s being desensitized to it. So when it does happen, he doesn’t get defensive.

Freebie

The very last thing I have for you is a PDF download that is all about a game that will help you reinforce everything we talked about.  I’m always very excited to teach this game to all of my clients.

I call it Rover Round Robin (for the young ones you can also call it Puppy Ping Pong). The general idea is that you have the whole family and your friends participating and you’re going to have the dog running from person to person each in turn.

It’s great exercise, it’s great bonding, AND it reinforces that running to whoever is calling him is SO MUCH FUN!  It’s a win, win, win!

But that’s not all…there’s different ways to modify the game to teach him additional skills and up the challenge. You can start to teach your dog everybody’s name (including his own). You can turn it into a game of hide-and-seek.  The possibilities are endless. I give you a whole bunch, but you can make up your own.

Free Tool: Rover Round Robin

This bonus includes step by step instructions on how to teach your dog and your family and friends to play the game. It also includes options to add challenges and new skills to the game. It’s a bonus that you can come back to again and again to continue to teach your dog and involve your family and friends…it doesn’t get better than that.

More description

In today’s episode, we’re going to talk about your recall command; most commonly known as “come”. 

I’m not going to be talk about teaching your dog the actual command.

What I am going to talk about is building a few everyday habits so when it comes time to teach your dog the command, it’s going to be a heck of a lot easier.  In fact, if you do this right, a formal command may not be necessary.  Your dog will always want to come running when you call them.

If you have a brand new puppy you are going to start these habits from day one. 

If you’ve had a dog for a while and maybe aren’t doing some of these things, that’s okay, because you’re just going to make today day one!

In addition, I have a bonus that teaches you how to play a game with your dog that reinforces everything we are going to talk about.  It’s also a great way to tire out your dog and create some family bonding!  More on that in a minute.

The three habits I’m going to go over are:

  1. Never call your dog to you for ANYTHING your dog sees as negative.
  2. NEVER chase your dog.
  3. Add a collar grab.

Each of these 3 habits is based on the fact that we are always training our dog, whether we realize it or not. If you have noticed that your dog knows you’re leaving the house an hour before you actually do, you know what I’m talking about (sometimes I’m a little disappointed at how predictable I am).  That’s because they are ALWAYS paying attention to our body language, actions, and habits.

We’re going to use this to our advantage. Let’s get started.

Psst: Don’t miss out on the free tool I tell you all about at the end!

Press play to listen to this podcast episode or subscribe to Your New Puppy where ever you listen to your podcasts.

1. NEVER call your dog to you for ANYTHING your dog sees as negative  (and every time they do come to you make it a good thing)

This is where you need to be aware of your own actions. Sometimes we have to change our own habits first, which we all know isn’t easy.

The recall command isn’t about getting your dog to listen; it’s about you being in competition with their environment.  We don’t want him to have any idea in their head that coming to you is the wrong decision.  Every single time he comes to you it’s a good thing because one day it’s going to be a choice between you and that squirrel across the street and you want to give yourself a fighting chance.

For example, he’s running around, he’s playing outside, you call him to you and you bring him inside. From your dog’s point of view, he was playing and having fun and when he came running over to you he had to go inside (boo!).   

How about when she’s playing with something she shouldn’t have. You call him to you and then you take it away from her. Well, all she knows is she came running over to you and she got him new fun toy taken away.  

This goes for bath time, or clipping their nails, or giving them medicine (unless it’s wrapped in peanut butter, then feel free to call them to you).   Anything that your dog is going to see as not fun, you go to your dog, do not call him to you.

Before you call your dog to you, look at it from his point of view and decide can I call him to me or should I go to get him. 

It’s gonna take a little practice to start seeing things through your dog’s eyes. It’s something to practice and to always, always keep in mind.  We want to be doing this every single day so it becomes a habit for us too.

14 Days to a Stronger Recall

Teaching your dog to come to you in any environment is the key to your peace of mind and your dog’s freedom.  In just 14 days you’ll be on your way to feeling the pride and joy that comes with having a strong, reliable recall with your dog. 

But did you know teaching your dog to come when called isn’t just teaching your dog another command. It’s developing a day habit with your dog.  Your own behavior is the most powerful tool you have when teaching your dog a strong, reliable recall. 

Inside 14 Days to a Stronger Recall you’ll learn the skills your dog needs, the habits you need and the mistakes to avoid to have your dog coming to you in any environment. 

2. NEVER chase your dog (and teach games where your dog chases you) 

Chase is one of those fundamental games that dogs love, love, love to play. If you watch a group of dogs playing, you will almost always see a game of chase happening.

Your dog has probably tried to play this with you.

DO NOT CHASE THEM.  Even in play.

If you play the chase game with them, you know the one, he has a toy maybe you’re running around the yard.  It is a fun game to play, but you don’t want him to decide to play that game when he has something dangerous or he just got off-leash and he’s in the middle of the street. 

If it’s a game that he’s never played with you, then he’s not gonna think to play it in those times.

What I DO encourage you to do is flip the game and get him to chase you.  You get him all excited and then you run in the other direction.  Then if he knows the game of chasing YOU,  when he get’s off-leash, you can get him all riled up and run back to the front door. He’ll be like, “oh yeah, I know this game. We play this game all the time!!”

Test this out. Next time you call your dog to you, shuffle back a couple of steps you’ll notice him pick up his speed.   It’s a natural instinct for dogs to chase something that is moving away from them.  Any time we can work with their natural instincts, let’s do it!

It’s a great tool and a great game to have in your back pocket when you need to get your dog off the street or back on his leash or away from the fence, or the unfriendly dog that might be walking down the street.

3. Add a collar grab

The last thing I want you to do is incredibly simple and you will thank me for it one day.  I want you to include a collar grab into your dog’s everyday training.  

To do a collar grab is simply slip two fingers under your dog’s collar and then immediately release. 

A good time to start this when you‘re training him to sit.  Before you give him the treat, reach down grab his collar and then give him the treat.   You can also do this when you are playing with their toys or scratching their belly, or anytime you are handling them.  Do this a few times a day so it’s something they are used to you doing and even have a good association with it.

There are a couple of reasons this will help you. When the time comes and you get them to come to you, she’s not going to think twice about you reaching around and grabbing a hold of his collar to put his leash on because you’ve done it a hundred times.

Any of us who has that dog that will grab a treat and run or just sit out of arm’s length from you or try to play keep away you know how this can help.

If we make it part of his everyday training, then it’s something that he expects.

A second, and equally important, reason why I like to have my clients do this is because it’s the most common for a dog to bite someone he knows is when you grab his collar. 

The reason this happens is when two dogs fight, the first thing they do is go for their neck. And when we want to get a hold of our dog we grab the collar.  Think about if you saw a dog running around the street and you want to grab them for safety, whether you knew the dog or not, you’re probably going to grab his collar cause there’s nothing else on them to grab.

So we want to desensitize him to it and associate it with something good.  I like doing it when you teach your dog to sit because treats are usually involved. It doesn’t have to be every time, but enough where he’s used to it and he’s being desensitized to it. So when it does happen, he doesn’t get defensive.

Freebie

The very last thing I have for you is a PDF download that is all about a game that will help you reinforce everything we talked about.  I’m always very excited to teach this game to all of my clients.

I call it Rover Round Robin (for the young ones you can also call it Puppy Ping Pong). The general idea is that you have the whole family and your friends participating and you’re going to have the dog running from person to person each in turn.

It’s great exercise, it’s great bonding, AND it reinforces that running to whoever is calling him is SO MUCH FUN!  It’s a win, win, win!

But that’s not all…there’s different ways to modify the game to teach him additional skills and up the challenge. You can start to teach your dog everybody’s name (including his own). You can turn it into a game of hide-and-seek.  The possibilities are endless. I give you a whole bunch, but you can make up your own.

Free Tool: Rover Round Robin

This bonus includes step by step instructions on how to teach your dog and your family and friends to play the game. It also includes options to add challenges and new skills to the game. It’s a bonus that you can come back to again and again to continue to teach your dog and involve your family and friends…it doesn’t get better than that.

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere

Leaving food out for you dog all the time is convenient and seems harmless on the surface, but there are many downsides to free feeding.

I talk about how free feeding can affect your dog’s behavior, health, potty training and more.

You will also get some tips on how to change the habit if it has already started.

 

Feel free to share or leave a comment below.

More description

Leaving food out for you dog all the time is convenient and seems harmless on the surface, but there are many downsides to free feeding.

I talk about how free feeding can affect your dog’s behavior, health, potty training and more.

You will also get some tips on how to change the habit if it has already started.

 

Feel free to share or leave a comment below.

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere

Once you have decided that you are ready for a dog (if you haven’t check out episode 1) it’s time to figure out which dog is right for you.

During this episode, I talk about 10 different traits to think about to help you decide what type of dog will best fit into your life.

While I use examples of different breeds, I do this just to give you a picture of what I’m talking about. Deciding which traits and qualities are best for you isn’t about picking a specific breed. My goal for you is to just be aware that all different types of dogs exist.

Remember it is possible to find a dog that you will not only love and care for but that will fit into your life so you can have the best experience possible. I believe that is essential in doing what is best for both your family and the new member you are welcoming in!

The specific traits I will talk about are:

  • Size
  • Energy
  • Training
  • Shedding
  • Grooming
  • Noise
  • Territorial
  • Gender
  • Climate

Here are additional resources that you can use to research a little further.

https://www.akc.org/breed-selector-tool/

https://www.forbes.com/advisor/pet-insurance/dog-breed-quiz-what-dog-should-i-get/

http://www.petmd.com/dog/breeds

http://iheartdogs.com/the-10-best-dog-breeds-for-first-time-owners/

https://www.amazon.com/Original-Dog-Bible-Definitive-Source-ebook/dp/B005PYJXDQ/ref=dp_kinw_strp_1

Free Tool! Which Dog is Right for you Workbook!

To help you out I’ve developed a tool to walk you through the different traits and qualities to figure out which ones are the most important to you. If you are interested you can request a copy below. It will be delivered directly to your inbox.

More description

Once you have decided that you are ready for a dog (if you haven’t check out episode 1) it’s time to figure out which dog is right for you.

During this episode, I talk about 10 different traits to think about to help you decide what type of dog will best fit into your life.

While I use examples of different breeds, I do this just to give you a picture of what I’m talking about. Deciding which traits and qualities are best for you isn’t about picking a specific breed. My goal for you is to just be aware that all different types of dogs exist.

Remember it is possible to find a dog that you will not only love and care for but that will fit into your life so you can have the best experience possible. I believe that is essential in doing what is best for both your family and the new member you are welcoming in!

The specific traits I will talk about are:

  • Size
  • Energy
  • Training
  • Shedding
  • Grooming
  • Noise
  • Territorial
  • Gender
  • Climate

Here are additional resources that you can use to research a little further.

https://www.akc.org/breed-selector-tool/

https://www.forbes.com/advisor/pet-insurance/dog-breed-quiz-what-dog-should-i-get/

http://www.petmd.com/dog/breeds

http://iheartdogs.com/the-10-best-dog-breeds-for-first-time-owners/

https://www.amazon.com/Original-Dog-Bible-Definitive-Source-ebook/dp/B005PYJXDQ/ref=dp_kinw_strp_1

Free Tool! Which Dog is Right for you Workbook!

To help you out I’ve developed a tool to walk you through the different traits and qualities to figure out which ones are the most important to you. If you are interested you can request a copy below. It will be delivered directly to your inbox.

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere

Want a new dog? Not sure if you are ready? Getting a new dog is a big decision and a long term commitment. Getting a dog isn’t something you can decide overnight, so we are here to help you figure it out!

This episode walks you through 5 questions to ask yourself to see if you are ready for a new dog.

Are You Ready for A New Dog? is the first part in a two-part series. Episode 002 will walk you through which type of dog is right for you.

The five questions we will go over are:
  • Do I have time for a dog?
  • Can I afford a dog?
  • Does my living situation allow for a dog?
  • How will I care for my dog when I travel?
  • Does a dog fit into my life now and in the future?

We will talk about the different things you need to think about when answering these questions.

Free Tool: Are you Ready for a New Dog Workbook.

To help you answer these questions honestly, below is a workbook where you can write down your answers. This tool is designed to help you work through any challenges and solutions to the above questions. There is also room to add your own questions, depending on your specific situation.

More description

Want a new dog? Not sure if you are ready? Getting a new dog is a big decision and a long term commitment. Getting a dog isn’t something you can decide overnight, so we are here to help you figure it out!

This episode walks you through 5 questions to ask yourself to see if you are ready for a new dog.

Are You Ready for A New Dog? is the first part in a two-part series. Episode 002 will walk you through which type of dog is right for you.

The five questions we will go over are:
  • Do I have time for a dog?
  • Can I afford a dog?
  • Does my living situation allow for a dog?
  • How will I care for my dog when I travel?
  • Does a dog fit into my life now and in the future?

We will talk about the different things you need to think about when answering these questions.

Free Tool: Are you Ready for a New Dog Workbook.

To help you answer these questions honestly, below is a workbook where you can write down your answers. This tool is designed to help you work through any challenges and solutions to the above questions. There is also room to add your own questions, depending on your specific situation.

Extract Knowledge
Listen elsewhere
Welcome to Your New Puppy’s Podcast!!

Getting a new puppy (or dog) is exciting and fun but it can also be very overwhelming.  No one gets a good dog by accident.  It takes time and energy to get the well-behaved dog we all dream of when we decided to bring home our new four-legged family member.

My goal is to guide you through all the information you need to guide you through the first months to a year and beyond, so you can get back to the fun!

In this episode, I tell you a little about me, who I am as a trainer and what you can expect from Your New Puppy’s Podcast.  

Resources:

yournewpuppy@playtimepaws.com:  Use this email to let us know what you want to hear about.

 

I look forward to talking with you!!

 

 

 

 

 

More description
Welcome to Your New Puppy’s Podcast!!

Getting a new puppy (or dog) is exciting and fun but it can also be very overwhelming.  No one gets a good dog by accident.  It takes time and energy to get the well-behaved dog we all dream of when we decided to bring home our new four-legged family member.

My goal is to guide you through all the information you need to guide you through the first months to a year and beyond, so you can get back to the fun!

In this episode, I tell you a little about me, who I am as a trainer and what you can expect from Your New Puppy’s Podcast.  

Resources:

yournewpuppy@playtimepaws.com:  Use this email to let us know what you want to hear about.

 

I look forward to talking with you!!

 

 

 

 

 

Extract Knowledge
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