Shop Talk Live - Fine Woodworking

Chris Schwarz is a furniture maker and writer who works from a German barroom built in 1896 in Covington, Ky. He is one of the founders of Lost Art Press, a book-publishing company that specializes in handwork, and Crucible Tool, a company that makes hand tools for woodwork. Chris is the author of several books, including Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use (F+W Media), The Anarchist's Tool Chest, Campaign Furniture, The Anarchist's Design Book and Ingenious Mechanics (Lost Art Press). In addition to his publishing efforts, he builds casework and Welsh stick chairs for clients all over the world.

Chris' class at Fine Woodworking Live is titled: Compound-Angle Joinery, Minus the Math Mastering compound angles typically means mastering trigonometry. But it doesn't have to be that way. Compound angles can be measured, laid out, and cut without any math—or even numbers. Chris will show you the methods he uses for replicating unusual (sometimes radical) compound angles to build his Welsh stick chairs. The method requires just a wire clothes hanger, a sliding bevel, and a ruler. (Oh, and you'll also need to bring an open mind.) The technique allows you to replicate compound angles from photos or drawings, or to create new designs using half-scale models (made with that clothes hanger).

Register now for Fine Woodworking Live 2019!

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna!

The winner will receive a prize that includes:

• 14|12 Bandsaw
• F2 Fusion Tablesaw
• 1 HP Dust Collector
• REVO 12|16
• 6″ Jointer ShearTec II

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna! The winner will receive a prize that includes:

• 14|12 Bandsaw
• F2 Fusion Tablesaw
• 1 HP Dust Collector
• REVO 12|16
• 6″ Jointer ShearTec II

Question 1:

From William: I live in Ohio where the Emerald Ash Borer is ravaging every ash tree around. With all these ash trees coming down and the infestation of the Ash Borer, are we looking at a future shortage of ash trees? Should we, as woodworkers, stock up on quality ash boards while we can get them and while they're fairly inexpensive?

Question 2:

From Paul: I've started looking for a better sketchbook and am overwhelmed by the choices. I've heard Mike talk about the books he uses, but I've never heard him mention the brand or "model" he favors. On STL 155 he mentioned 60-80 lb paper, spiral bound, unruled, 6x9 size. Frankly, that limits it to about half a zillion options and it's very hard to judge quality even touching the book at the local art supply place. So please spill, Mike!

Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool

• Mike: Japanese saw with the handle trimmed off
• Barry: His new benchtop mortiser
• Ben: Dovetail marker made by Christian Becksvoort

Question 3:

From Caleb: I'm wondering if any of you have used a hollow chisel mortiser as a drill press? Is this a viable way to get around buying a drill press?

Question 4:

From Chris: What books inspire you to get out to your shop and build something? Any favorite books on the history of woodworking and maybe different trends through the ages? Or books specific to a style of working, like Shaker or arts & crafts, etc.? And from Larry: I would love to see a Live Talk episode on "go to books" reference books for novice woodworkers.

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Leave a comment on this episodes show notes page to be entered in the giveaway of Craig Thibodeau's book, The Craft of Veneering.

Peter Galbert's FWW Live 2018 Keynote Speech - Unsurprisingly, the journey of a windsor chairmaker is rarely a straight line

Question 1:

From David: I have avoided cordless power tools because as a hobbyist and renter, I seldom use the tools outside of the basement workshop. I've been told I don't know what I'm missing, but it seems my wallet prefers it that way. I'm most concerned about trying to commit to one brand/manufacturer or contend with the expense and hassle of having multiple chargers and batteries that aren't compatible. Do you feel as though it makes sense to keep all of your cordless power tools within the same brand? Or is my concern unfounded? If you had to commit to a brand, what would they be and why?

Question 2:

From Harry: How can I prevent Camellia from becoming all gummy. After letting a plane set for a few weeks that had been wiped down with Camellia Oil it was next to impossible to get the plane apart. I actually caused some minor damage it was stuck so hard.

Segment: Smooth Move Ben: Not looking at the fine print on a router bearing Anissa: Not looking at the sticker telling her which way to assemble a part on a dust collector

Question 3:

From J: Hey folks, I recently volunteered to be the shop manager for my local guild of woodworkers. We have a 16" Oliver that apparently, according to some, must never have its bed waxed. They prefer it is cleaned only with kerosene, the reason being that it's believed waxing a jointer bed will cause glue joints to fail. Any merit to this train of thought? Or can I just wax it and make everyone's lives easier.

• Mike recommendation of TopCote is now called GlideCote
• Ben uses and recommends SlipIt

Question 4:

From Joe: I've gotten very good at sharpening my hand plane blades as well as making my wood surface feel silky smooth off the hand plane. When using a 2 pound cut shellac as a finish, do I need to rough up wood surface with sandpaper (such as 300 grit) so the shellac can stick better to the wood surface?

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Normally here I post a bunch of links. I'm going to be honest, you just need one link on this, Craig's website. Everything he discusses is easily found on his website, and the site itself is wonderfully done. It's worth going to just to see how a real pro presents their work. Plus, while you're there you can buy a signed copy of his book! -Ben

https://ctfinefurniture.com/

How Ben finished Mike's spoon - Finish Greenwood Spoons Like a Pro by Emmet Van Driesche

Question 1: From Fabian: I have a sliding table saw and struggle to convert all the jigs mentioned in the magazine to fit my saw. How would you attach for example a kumiko grid jig as used by Mike in the article "Spice up your work with kumiko" to the saw? Do I fasten it with bolts to the crosscut fence or just let it ride in the one miter slot in the sliding table? In either case it is just secured on the left side of the blade.

• Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue
• Sliding Tablesaws: Is One Right for You? by Daniel Chaffin #272–Tools & Shops 2019 Issue

Question 2: From Chris: I'm on the lookout for a new paste wax solution. I'm totally over the petroleum smell of commercial options, and would love something simple with just a bit of luster to apply to my projects. Has Mike ever shared his recipe to attempt to recreate the non-longer-available Goddard's Cabinet Makers Wax? I never used the product in its original form, but I'm sold on his description of it. Something natural, simple, and lemon-scented sounds like the perfect solution for me.

• Which Waxes Work Best? by Mark Schofield
• Custom Blending Paste Wax in the Shop - Don Williams site Don'sBarn.com
• Briwax - Natural Creamed Beeswax

Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time… for this week Tom: Cabinet scraper and card scraper Mike: Dead blow mallet to straighten his folded-back backsaw Ben: ARK Shark Guard for his Delta Unisaw

Question 3: From Josh: I see pictures posted online where people have gotten a completely mirror polished edge on a chisel or plane iron. I'm using a Norton 1000 water stone, followed by a King 3000, followed by a Norton 8000 stone. I can't seem to get that mirror polish. I still end up with some scratches, no matter how long I work with the 8000 stone, even when honing a new blade. I know Mike recommends 1000/4000/8000, but Lie Nielsen skips the intermediate grit, so I don't think the 3000 stone is my problem. I've thought about trying to get a finer stone than the 8000 I have, but I don't want a $100 experiment.

Question 4: From Peter: The cement floor of my shop is unsealed and kind of wrecks my feet after a day in the shop. Keeping in mind that it's a rental, do you have any recommendations for an affordable flooring option that may help my feet and also protect my equipment from the sludge that melts off my wife's car? It needs to be solid enough that I can have my lathe on that won't increase vibration.

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey.

Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home. The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer?

• Portable Tablesaws by Patrick McCombe #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue

Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a 2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers.

• Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue
• Engineer Shelves With The Sagulator by Bill Kovalick #190–Mar/April 2007 Issue
• Brass Stretcher Brightens a Bench by Michael Robbins #267–Mar/Apr 2018 Issue
• Given a common inspiration, three furniture makers create a diversity of designs by Mark Schofield #184–May/June 2006 Issue

Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions:

Benside Table:

Segment: Smooth Moves

• John: Not cleaning the lint off of a new floor finish applicator
• Anissa: Touching a friends piece of furniture while the finish was still wet
• Ben: Trusting a tool that should never have been trusted

Question 3: When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer. Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench?

• Let There Be Light by Nancy McCoy #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue

Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn't be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn't hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened?

Recommendations:

• Ben - PBS's Craft in America episode–Visionaries
• Anissa - American violin maker–James Reynold Carlisle

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey.

Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home. The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer?

• Portable Tablesaws by Patrick McCombe #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue

Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a 2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers.

• Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue
• Engineer Shelves With The Sagulator by Bill Kovalick #190–Mar/April 2007 Issue
• Brass Stretcher Brightens a Bench by Michael Robbins #267–Mar/Apr 2018 Issue
• Given a common inspiration, three furniture makers create a diversity of designs by Mark Schofield #184–May/June 2006 Issue

Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions:

Benside Table:

Segment: Smooth Moves

• John: Not cleaning the lint off of a new floor finish applicator
• Anissa: Touching a friends piece of furniture while the finish was still wet
• Ben: Trusting a tool that should never have been trusted

Question 3: When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer. Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench?

• Let There Be Light by Nancy McCoy #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue

Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn't be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn't hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened?

Recommendations:

• Ben - PBS's Craft in America episode–Visionaries
• Anissa - American violin maker–James Reynold Carlisle

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Cameron: I'm thinking of making a bench inspired by Mark Edmundson's "Modern Danish Cord Bench" from issue #194-Nov/Dec 2007. I'm want to stretch the width to 6' to use at my 7' table. Will the front and rear rails be enough to support 4 well fed adults or will I have a hilarious story to tell for the next 30 year about the thanksgiving collapse of 2019?

• Mark Edmundson's "Modern Danish Cord Bench" from issue #194-Nov/Dec 2007
• Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue

Question 2: From Mark: I saw a video where Matt Wajda drew a tool chest, full scale by hand. Is this a common method? I draw Architecture for a living, I am tired of drawing. I'm not interested in SketchUp, I already spend way too much time with AutoCAD. Woodworking is my release. I completely understand that you can work issues out on paper long before you even touch a board. I am curious about designing without drawing. Does anyone you know use a design process that does not involve drawing?

• Behind the Design: Tim Coleman's Arabesque by Tim Coleman and Ben Strano #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue
• Mike's post showing the 1/4-piece mirror trick

Segment: Shop Resolutions

• Mike - Learn a new skill this year
• Anissa - Draw every day
• Ben - Finish working on his shop, and start working in his shop… by May

Question 3: From Andy: Any idea how to go about achieving the finish in the attached image? I've never seen a finish like this one that's pretty vibrant, yet maintains the appearance of the grain. Is it just a watered down paint?

• Real Milk Paint's Color Chart
• Old Fashioned Milk Paint's Color Chart

Question 4: From Bob: I have some Japanese chisels that I'm starting to use. About 3/16" behind the edge of the blade is a cove. When you grind back to that cove, the back will no longer be flat. Do you have to toss the chisel out at that point?

• Tapping Out a Japanese Plane Blade with Andrew Hunter by Andrew Hunter #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1:

From Tony:

We hear so much talk about Lie Nielsen, Veritas, and Stanley hand planes but, I have a Millers Falls No. 8 that i picked up from an Antique store, that works really well. I don't think I've ever heard the Millers Falls Name be mentioned on the Podcast, so I am wondering if they're any good? They seem to have been in contention with Stanley and they are American made from New England no less, since 1868!

• TimeTestedTools.net
• Ron Hock replacement plane blades -http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html

Question 2:

From Matt:

I have been wanting to do a project using drawbore mortise and tenon joints. Is it a bad idea to attempt this type of joint in a softer woods like cherry or walnut, rather than oak.

• Drawbored Tenons by Steve Latta #241–July/Aug 2014 Issue
• Video: Chris Gochnour - Drawboring and Gluing Up the Face Frame
• Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue

Segment: Smooth Move

• Mike - Forgetting that someone commissioned something from him, not those he looks up to
• Barry - Making a mistake on a piece, remaking the piece, then accidentally using the mistake on the final piece
• Ben - Trying to get away with not making a proper sled and accidentally dropping a piece on the tablesaw blade

Question 3:

From Bob: Can someone explain the difference between a scrub plane and a smooth plane? They seem similar in size and construction.

Question 4:

From Phillip:

I am looking to build a dining room table to a friend of mine, and am wondering what type of wood would be best to use. I have narrowed it down to White Oak, Cherry, and Walnut. The friend that I am making this for is a military man, and so gets stationed at different bases around the country every few years. My main concern is the table warping or splitting due to the drastic location and environmental changes that he will come across. Obviously, being a dining room table it also must be sturdy and not be too prone to scratches, dings, etc. White Oak is very wear resistant, but has a medium-high shrinkage value. Cherry is pretty stable once dried, but is softer and may get more dings. Walnut seems to be the middle road, being harder and less susceptible to scratches than Cherry but less likely to shrink/warp than White Oak.

What type of wood would you suggest that is going to be resistant to scratches and dings, yet won't warp or split in drastic climate changes?

Recommendations:

Barry - Dedicated Shop Shoes Ben - Chris Thile's Thank You, New York"Mike - Tom Waits' album Swordfish Trombones

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254:

1. Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page
2. Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list

We'll pick a winner December 21, 2018.

Question 1:

From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong?

Question 2:

From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards. I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist. Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence.

All Time Favorite Technique

Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain.

• How to Fix Flaws and Mistakes by Mark Schofield #228–Sept/Oct 2012 Issue

Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck

Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers

• Pennsylvania Spice Box by Steve Latta #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue

Question 3:

From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint?

Question 4:

From Anthony: Last couple years I've been on the hunt for an 8" jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12" jointer that I'm pretty excited about. It's a Bridgewood 12" 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use?

• Push pads that actually work by Roland Johnson

Recommendations:

Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page

Bob - His own Instagram page

Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

For more information on The Florida School of Woodwork: http://www.schoolofwoodwork.com/

For more infomation on Fine Woodworking HANDS On 2019 in Tampa, February 1-3: http://bit.ly/2Pbh03U

Kate Swann is a lifetime woodworker, furnituremaker, and artist that known nation wide for her elegant custom furniture designs. Her unique works have been featured in magazines and act as functional furniture pieces in boardrooms, homes and retail spaces around the country. Renowned for her exquisite textural and surface embellishment work, Kate draws from her time spent wandering the globe as a shepherdess, outward bound instructor and translator. As the founder and director of the Florida School of Woodworking, she oversees the curriculum, and mission of the school. Her knowledge and skills come from many years of running Franklin St Fine Woodwork, a custom design/build company she co-founded over twenty years ago. Passionate about the artisanal crafts she works to inspire and motivate students to achieve new levels of accomplishment in the fine woodworking and to enjoy the value of incorporating artisanal work in their lives. We're excited to have the Florida School of Woodwork as the location for our first ever hands-on event, February 1-3, 2019. Fine Woodworking's HANDS ON is a unique opportunity to expand your skills through personalized instruction from a diverse group of experts in an intimate setting.

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Matt: I have 3 questions about getting into kumiko: 1.) What (Japanese) chisel would you recommend starting with?

• Hida Tool - HidaTool.com
• Iida Tool - JapanTool-Iida.com

2.) What online/printed resources would you recommend?

• Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue
• Mike Farrington's Kumiko work on YouTube
• John Reed Fox on Roy Underhill's Woodwright's Shop

3.) Any thoughts on preparing the strips without a tablesaw or drum sander? Question 2: From Martti: What is it in your preferred kumiko construction that ensures trouble-free cleanup over time for quite some years and decades? Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Ben - Loading magnets into a brass tube in order to keep the polarity correct

• K and J Magnetics

Mike - Sharpening a chisel to 20º-25º for paring end-grain on pine

Question 3: From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike what Mike shows. Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods. Where can you get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike.

• Mike building his tea box on PBS

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb

Question 1:

From Damon: It's time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don't have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think:

1. Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing
2. Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw
3. After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence.

Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer?

• Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla
• Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini
• Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue
• Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust
• Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue
• Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue

Question 2:

From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong.

Segment: All Time Favorite Technique

Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters

• Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks)

Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in.

Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece

• Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue
• Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue

Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions!

From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I'd thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads "The customer is always wrong"

Love the show; Anissa "Long Pause" Kapsales is a nice addition

From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts? After listening to the pod for years now I'm obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don't want to waste a whole board to get one piece.

As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end.

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Just a test, nothing to see here

Head over to ShopTalkLive.com and leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page for your chance to win a one-year membership to Fine Woodworking's new UNLIMITED membership! We'll pick a winner November 9, 2018.

Make sure you check out The Craft of Veneering by Craig Thibodeau

Question 1:

From Tom: I am building a credenza that will be 84" long, with solid walnut top and bottom. If the back is made of plywood (1/2" or 3/4"), is it ok to glue the back to the solid top and bottom pieces, or will differential wood movement cause this joint to fail?

• Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue

Question 2:

From Ron: What are your opinions on the various panel clamps available (ie Damstom) and are any worth buying? In most of your videos/articles I see shop made wooden cauls and lots of bar clamps, but I'm looking for a less stressful way since I struggle to keep things flat as I rush to get clamps on before the glue sets up.

• Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue
• How to Make Cambered Cauls by Asa Christiana #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue

Segment: All Time Favorite Tool

Ben: Sharpening stone box

Mike: Associate editor, Barry Dima, because he's a kiss up and gave him a set of dividers

Tom: Small hammer he STOLE from the FWW shop

Question 3:

From Craig: I am going to build Garrett Hack's huntboard from issue #187. One thing I am unsure of is how to attach the drawer runners. The only thing shown in the text and plan is that they are tenoned at the front to the rails, with no mention of the back. They can't be mortised into the back panel like the kickers due to the assembly order, and simply gluing them to the sides would lead to cross grain gluing issues. I've thought of a couple ways I could attach them, one being sitting on cleats attached to the case back, or screwed into the side partitions with elongated holes. Do you guys have any thoughts or know how Garrett secured these pieces?

• The Versatile Huntboard by Garrett Hack #187–Nov/Dec 2006 Issue
• Video Workshop: Federal Side Table by Steve Latta
• How to Build a Swing-Out Drawer by Garrett Hack #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content.

Start your free two week trial here.

Show notes are available here.

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking.

Links mentioned in this episode:

An Edge-Jointing Primer - Well-tuned tools and the right technique create joints that last by Gary Rogowski #124–May/June 1997 Issue

Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue

No Black Line Veneer

How to add splines for stronger miters - Quick jig produces clean joints with hidden power - by Doug Stowe #268–May/June 2018 Issue

Show notes

Links mentioned in this episode:

Wood Planes Made Easy by David Finck #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QU8Ui9

Handwork: Make a coopering plane by Clark Kellogg #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QVs9YP

James Krenov on Handplanes by James Krenov #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QTT5YS

Get to Know Japanese Handplanes by Andrew Hunter #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2wY5Mfg

Japanese Planes Demystified by Carl Swensson #145–Nov/Dec 2000 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QRCHrM

Soundproof a Basement Shop by Mark Corke #167–Tools & Shops 2003 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QQRQd3

Mike Farrington on YouTube - http://bit.ly/2QXRWPT

Dorian Bracht on YouTube - http://bit.ly/2QXQtsR

Sign up now for your chance to win the Ultimate Router Table Giveaway from Fine Woodworking and JessEm Tool Company

Links discussed in this episode:

Sanding on the Drill Press - by Michael Fortune #254–May/June 2016 Issue

Arts & Crafts Bed by Kevin Rodel #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue

Contemporary Arts and Crafts Bed by Michael Cullen #268–May/June

Emmet Van Driesche - Spoon blanks for sale

To enter to win a USB archive leave a comment on the show notes page for this episode. Winner will be selected September 14, 2018

Sharpening Services – Is it worth the time and expense to get your blades sharpened?

Video: Machine Setup – The Jointer part 1 – Matt Wajda sets the jointer tables using only a straight-edge and some scraps of paper

Finish Line: Original Arts and Crafts by Nancy R. Hiller #193–Sept/Oct 2007 Issue

Re-creating a Shaker Finish by Linda Coit #203–Jan/Feb 2009 Issue

Video Workshop: Mike fumes the white oak of his hayrake table

Video: How to Fume Furniture with Ammonia by Kelly J. Dunton #186–Sept/Oct 2006 Issue

Show Notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl

For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh

Links mentioned:

Video: Accurate Biscuit Joints by Tony O'Malley #165–Sept/Oct 2003 Issue

Fine Furniture with Biscuit Joints by Michael Fortune #227–July/Aug 2012 Issue

Hall Table with Flair by Jennifer Anderson #236–Nov/Dec 2013 Issue

Display Cabinet, the Krenov Way by Jim Budlong #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue

Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue

Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue

How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups by Michael Fortune #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue

How to Make a Mallet by Michael Cullen #230–Tools & Shops 2013 Issue

We were going to put this interview in the last episode, but it deserved to have your undivided attention. So here is a special bonus episode of Shop Talk Live.

For more information on The Maplewoodshop program: https://www.maplewoodshop.com/

Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb

Chris Becksvoort, the dovetail master at work by Christian Becksvoort, Ben Strano #264-Nov/Dec 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2M5heMI

Architectural Wall Cabinet by Nancy R. Hiller #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue -http://bit.ly/2LWq1QU

An Elegant, Contemporary DeskAn Elegant, Contemporary Desk by Michael Robbins #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue -http://bit.ly/2M0LmII

Scaling Furniture from Photos by Miguel Gómez-Ibáñez #170–May/June 2004 Issue - http://bit.ly/2LWtKhk

Resize. Don't Redraw. – Dave Richards totally changes the scale of a piece in an efficient manner by David Richards - http://bit.ly/2vfRWlg

Mike, Matt, and Ben discuss glue-ups, premium vs. not-so-premium chisels, clogged handplanes, and milling lumber

Show-notes: http://bit.ly/2KQ2AF3

Links mentioned in the show:

• Tool Rant: Is that really a clamp? by Bob Van Dyke -http://bit.ly/2IZFNom
• How To Cut Dovetails on the Tablesaw by Gregory Paolini #231–Jan/Feb 2013 Issue - http://bit.ly/2J070av
• How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups by Michael Fortune #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2J0YqbF
• Tim Rousseau – Simple push stick for safe bandsaw cuts - http://bit.ly/2KU65uj

If you have questions you'd like us to answer on the show, send them in to shoptalk@taunton.com. You can also use the voice memo app on your phone and email us a 30 second audio recording, or if you're old-school you can leave a voicemail by calling 203-304-3456.

Enter for your chance to win the Fine Woodworking SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw Giveaway - http://bit.ly/2HrUK1N

Show notes: http://bit.ly/2Ls18c1

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh

Links from the show:

Make a Table from a Board by Michael Pekovich #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sHpRkw Video Workshop: Single Board Side Table by Michael Pekovich - http://bit.ly/2Hqu8yf

Left-Tilt vs. Right-Tilt Tablesaws by Hendrik Varju #191–May/June 2007 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYvKt

Tablesaw Kickback by Kelly Mehler #116–Jan/Feb 1996 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYPsF Video: The Mighty DIY Push Stick by Ellen Kaspern #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sJ30Fq Push pads that actually work. Are you ready? by Rollie Johnson - http://bit.ly/2sKTNMJ

Build a Prairie Settle by Kevin Rodel #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2HqVlkq

Mike, Matt, and Ben discuss jointer setup, bad bandsaw blades, plywood workbenches, and Japanese chisels and their all-time favorite techniques

Mike, Anissa, and Ben discuss Christian Becksvoort dovetailing, Mike then chaldovetail jigs, card scrapers, half-mortise locks, and Anissa admits to an epic smooth move

Show notes: http://bit.ly/2HCvQxD

This episode was sponsored by Titebond: http://www.titebond.com/

Check out MM Wood Studio's experience at FWW Live: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwvx3FRkkl4

For more information about Rikon's turning system: http://bit.ly/2HyVEut Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl

For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh

In a futile attempt to empty the inbox, Mike, Matt, and Ben blaze through 14 questions in this special quick-fire episode

Full show notes are available here: http://bit.ly/2qu9xUc

This episode is sponsored by Titebond:

Even if you're not a professional woodworker, you want to use the glue the pros use. And three out of four pro woodworkers trust Titebond as their choice. For building wood furniture or cabinets to making picture frames or birdhouses, or just general repairs around the house, Titebond has the widest choice of glues to help with whatever project you want to tackle. Titebond – the right glue for your next project.

For more information, visit titebond.com or seem them on Facebook and Instagram.

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl

For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0

To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh

Plus, dealing with a warped panel, keeping tabletops from moving, the safety of spalted wood, and a snippet from our interview with Brian Boggs

Handplanes that don't hold adjustments, dull bandsaw blades, 6-in. vs. 8-in. jointers, favorite tools, and the reign of Ben begins

Plus, bandsaw tables, mitered shooting boards, smooth moves, philosophical woodworking questions, glass disk sharpening systems, and pencil vs. knife

Bandsaw speed settings, mitered rips by hand, cabinet scrapers, crosscut sleds, sliding dovetails, and all-time favorite articles and tools

Plus, choosing stock for a desktop, sanding techniques for turning, chopping through mortises, favorite techniques, and a preview of Tom's interview with Gary Rogowski

Plus, ways to live without a jointer, bullnose bits, evening out color in sapele, favorite tools, and smooth moves

Plus, the guys discuss drawer and door reveals, shellac flakes, panel saws, shop layout, flattening chisels, and their all-time favorite articles

Fine Homebuilding editor Justin Fink comes in to discuss shop heating, moving a post, shop floors, walling in utilities, and all time favorite shops of all time

Plus, the guys talk about deciding what to build, Japanese vs Western style saws, favorite techniques, and what you should add to your holiday wishlist

Plus, the guys talk about planing veneer, jointing long boards, angled tenons, honing guides, and philosophical woodworking questions

Plus, the guys talk about outfeed tables, bandsaw drift, veneer thickness, and cross grain glue-ups

Plus, the guys talk about migrating sawdust staining the surrounding wood, shoulder planes, green wood, and they take a deep dive on drawer fitting

Plus, the guys talk about the new issue, curved scrapers, prefinishing dos and don't, milling lumber for a workbench top, and dive into what perfection means

Plus, alternatives to taking woodworking classes, routing circle cut-outs, glue line creeping, favorite tools, and smooth moves

Plus, the guys talk about drawer reveals, finishing cutting boards, all time favorite techniques and their newest smooth moves

This episode of Shop Talk Live is sponsored by Audible.

Head over to Audible.com/ShopTalkLive to get a free audio book.

04:50 - Question 1:

I have a 400/1000 grit combination diamond stone, a high quality honing guide, and a leather strop. People always talk about removing the burr on the back of the blade after sharpening. I try to do that, but it seems to just bend back around and doesn't come off. I end up with a tiny sliver of iron on the end of my blade which is not straight and that I can bend with my finger. Why is this happening, what am I doing wrong?

-Theo

11:00 - Question 2:

Is there a maximum board width you are comfortable gluing up for a table top? I've heard that wider boards that are ripped down somewhat are more stable in the long run. I'm using some hickory for my top, and the boards will be around 10" wide following stock prep. I'd prefer not to rip them down.

-Eric

16:45 - All Time Favorite Tool of All Time... for this week:

Mike - Clamping cauls

Mike Pekovich: Arts and Crafts on Display Ian Kirby: Gluing Up Michael Fortune: How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups

Ben - Lie Nielsen - Boggs curved spokeshave

37:50 - Question 3:

I recently made my first shooting board and modeled it after Mike's shooting board with the sliding speed square for miters. My fence is dead square, checked with multiple hardware store squares but my cuts have yet to yield a square result. The consistent result is a cut that is high on the fence side of the board. After squaring and re-squaring many times I am at a loss. What am I doing wrong?

-Wes

Mike Pekovich: 6 Essential Bench Jigs Video: Mike Pekovich's Go-To Work Holding Jigs

46:20 - Ben's Audible recomendation:

Why We Make Things and Why It Matters: The Education of a Craftsman By Peter Korn Narrated by: Trabber Burns

Head over to Audible.com/ShopTalkLive to get a free audio book.

52:10 - Question 4:

A few months ago, I made a small side table out of cherry for my wife. The table came out great but I've noticed in the past weeks that the glue line has turned into an obnoxious orange color. The table has sat in indirect sunlight since finished. The dowels have a "starburst" effect of glue around them and the glue line between the boards in the panel are now clearly visible. I was wondering if you'd ever experienced this. I had thought I'd sanded enough to remove any residual glue but perhaps not. Now that the project has been finished with Arm-R-Seal, would it work to sand off the finish to remove the glue marks and then re-finish it? In the end, I'd like to make this project look great again. Any thoughts would be most helpful. Thanks for your time.

- Daniel

56:00 - All Time Favorite Technique of All Time... for this week

Ben - Using a finder of a glove to seal your squeeze bottle of finish

Mike - Breaking up a complicated glue up into multiple parts

1:02:30 - Question 5:

When sharpening chisels, do you put a micro bevel on them or just a standard 25 degree?

-Richard

Plus, Ben, Matt, and Anissa discuss their favorite furniture makers, rules for the shop, All Time Favorite Tools and FWW Articles

Plus, the guys talk about dovetail spacing, hollow-chisel mortiser techniques, bucket-list furniture, smooth moves, and introduce a new segment taking a deep dive into surface prep

The guys are in Vegas and get to chat with skills advocate John Ratzenberger. Rollie Johnson joins and helps answer questions about secondary woods, having logs milled, and grinding on the cheap.

Vic Tesolin stops by to talk tools and tool bombs, plus the guys talk about splash-and-go sharpening stones, inexpensive vises, fretsaws, shaping curved legs, tool cabinets, and their all-time favorite woodworking books of all time… for this week.